Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. NAPA's answer to Optima battery
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Probs with fuel pump & RPM relay
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
3. A Sad day for me pt.2
From: "Derrick Viane" <clarion9375r@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. door latch adjustments?`
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Front lower control arms (was: parts cross-compatibility)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:14:51 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: NAPA's answer to Optima battery
In a message dated 2/11/01 2:19:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
raddad@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< I do know, however, that the maintenance free batteries from NAPA,
EXIDE,
INTERSTATE and OPTIMA all fit in the space very nicely and have both top
and
side posts on them. >>
I called my local NAPA guy a few days ago and he was at a loss to identify
their equivalent to the Optima Red Top. So I got the Optima for $169.
(gulp!) at a different place. Today the NAPA guy got back to me. Theirs is
the "NASCAR Select Orbital Battery," part number 9934/78 and he listed a
price of $124.99 Looks like the Optima, (like a six pack) and uses the
same type of design: six independent spiral cells in a heavy duty case,
low
self discharge rate, side and top terminals. He doesn't carry them in
stock
but could get them. Two year free, 84 mo. pro rata replacement. The
Optima
has a "two year" warranty, but I'm not sure if it is the exact same as the
NAPA. Two years doesn't sound very long if it's pro rata! (Declining
percentage of reimbursement.)
-Wayne A. Ernst
The New DeLorean Manuals Project
vin 11174
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 23:16:40 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Probs with fuel pump & RPM relay
When the fuel pump is off, there are a series of check valves and the
accumulator that maintain fuel pressure within the system. When you
crank the engine, the distributor moves and the impulse coil inside
sends a signal out. This immediately trips the fuel pump realy to turn
the fuel pump on. Since pressure has been maintained within the fuel
lines, no priming is nessisary.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, at88mph@xxxx wrote:
> Knut and others,
>
>
> Thanks for the info, but maybe I'm mistaken in my thinking. I
understand
> that the white/slate is recieving pulses from the coil with the
engine
> running but, I thought that when you turned the key to just the
'run'
> position, (before you turn the key to the start position to engage
the
> starter) that the fuel pump gets primed for about 2-3 seconds. Am
I wrong
> on this? If I'm correct in assuming that the fuel pump primes for
2-3 sec.
> in 'run' then the coil wouldn't be a factor at that point...or would
it??
> This is where I'm confused :)
>
>
> Thanks for the help!,
>
> Duke
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx>
>
> >I don't think it's supposed to turn on
> > first unless presented with an impuse on its sense signal (first
> > spark when cranking).
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 23:20:28
From: "Derrick Viane" <clarion9375r@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A Sad day for me pt.2
In addition to my message below the car has a black interior the vin is
#1657
From: "Derrick Viane" <clarion9375r@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] A Sad day for me
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 02:05:37
To all on the list,
It has come to the day where I cannot afford my D anylonger I have
been
putting this off for a while now hoping I would come across some money,
but
it has not happend so I forced to sell it for the sake of my new daughter.
Down to the info:
1981
Automatic
original front tires
previous owner changed the fuel pump, I changed the accumulator
some front fascia "eyebrow effect"
approx 12k miles
No dents or dings
appraised by Holt autosales at $22,000-$24,000
If you have any other questions please email me at ghettod@voyager,net
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:32:58 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: door latch adjustments?`
Hello all,
i am in a situation where it seems that my passenger side door latches are
not fully engaging. the primary latches work just fine, but the secondary
ones are not working right. sometimes if you slam the door really hard
they
catch, and sometimes they don't. this is on both latches on the door, but
the rearward one is much more sketchy in function right now.
should i follow the shop manual's procedures for door latch adjustments,
or
is there something else i should check first? the temp is 0 degrees here
so
that may have a roll in this problem. it hasn't done this before except
the
rearward latch on the passenger side has been like this all winter.
anyone
have any good tips?
thanks
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:44:15 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Front lower control arms (was: parts cross-compatibility)
What made me ask the question about the control arms was an article I read
in the July 1977 issue of Car and Driver which said about a DeLorean
prototype, "The designer obviously raided a Pinto parts bin, because the
steering gear, upper control arms and upright in front are Ford parts, and
the lower control arms are lengthened Pinto hardware."
But that was only for the prototype. Thanks to Dave Swingle for clearing
the matter up.
Now for Michael asking why I don't just go and buy original or restored
lower control arms from the DeLorean suppliers...
I tried that. I asked Rob Grady for a new set and immediately he went off
on a tangent telling me how to straighten my old ones. I stopped him and
said, "No, you don't understand; I want new ones." And then he stuck the
realizer to me pretty quick. I may have some details wrong, but I
understood that he said that there are no NOS ones left. Used ones in
good
condition I think fetch $610 a piece.
So for now I'm driving around with bent front control arms from where a
tow
truck hooked onto the car before I owned it. I aligned the wheels to
compensate, but that is just a temporary fix. So y'all let me know when
you
get new ones made. I would be willing to test prototype ones. You know
how
good I am at finding fault with the various vendor's products (wink,
wink).
But then I might send off my bent ones to have them straightened; only
that
could mean leaving the car on jack stands for a long time.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN