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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re:Antifreeze
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Re: No Heat?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: No Heat?
From: "gwells" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. S.S. Shift Plate
From: "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Molded body panels (was Flying DeLorean)
From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: No Heat?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
7. Tail light cover screws
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Zilla Reliability
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
9. Interior Trim Removal [was lock probs]
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
10. RE: S.S. Shift Plate
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA, CCNA" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Alternator Question!
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Dean Kruse
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
13. Loose vacuum hose...help!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: No Heat?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
15. toronto star article
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting@xxxxxx>
16. DeLorean Mid atlantic
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
17. RE: Molded body panels (was Flying DeLorean)
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Molded body panels (was Flying DeLorean)
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. finding a delorean owner
From: azb888@xxxxxx
20. St. Patricks Day Parade Dallas,Tx.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Interior Trim Removal
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
22. Tail light problems
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
24. Funny stuff!
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
25. RE: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 00:51:24 EST
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Antifreeze
In a message dated 2/10/01 5:28:00 AM Central Standard Time, David writes:
>>>
> "-- keep animals away from it, it smells sweet to them and if they ingest
> enough it will kill your furry friends!"
> >>>
Not a question of enough! Just a couple of drops will do it!
I have killed a couple of cats over the years as a result of just a small
antifreeze leak on the garage floor. (Good riddance to the cats, but that is
another story.)
>>>
> run more than 50/50 or you lower the boiling point even though you can
> lower the freezing point. (You only do that in the most severe
>
>>>
I agree. Her in MN it gets pretty cold at times but I have never had a
problem with a 50/50 mix down to -30. In colder temperatures the worst that
will happen to a 50/50 mix is that it will turn into slush.
Roger
1074
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 01:16:19 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: No Heat?
Not so!,
During hot weather when the AC is in use the temperature control is usually
kept in the maximum cold position which closes the heater core
re-circulating door. When this door is closed air entering the lower plenum
chamber bypasses the heater core, therefore only unheated air will enter the
cabin.
In other words air conditioned cold air will still flow through the AC vents
into the cabin even if the hot water valve is wide open.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 11:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: No Heat?
> If that were the case, then he would always have heat since when
> there is vacum present at the valve it keeps it shut. No vacum opens
> that valve.
>
> Steve
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, njp548@xxxx wrote:
> > Jack,
> >
> > Maybe the vacuum line that connects to the water valve that
> circulates
> > hot water into the heater core isn't connected. It could have
> easily been
> > disconnected by accident. To see if that is the case....when
> looking
> > directly at the engine compartment, you will see a very small
> vacuum line
> > coming from the drivers side of the firewall leading to the middle
> of the
> > back of the engine. That is the vacuum line that goes from the
> mode switch
> > to the water valve telling it to open or shut depending on the
> position the
> > mode switch is in. Hope that helps.
> >
> > Later,
> > Nick
> > 1852
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:11:55 -0000
From: "gwells" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Heat?
Posted answers to your query refer to the vacuum line to the valve that
controls the flow of water to the heater unit. The problem that I had
was that the valve was stuck in the closed position so whether there was
vacuum or not was irrelevant. The valve shoulb be open all the time
except when the a/c is on the Max position. You will probably have to
remove the valve and free off the rusted/ seized hinged joint on the
actuating arm.
Graham (UK)
vin 17152
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 3:15 AM
Subject: [DML] No Heat?
> Well, I never drove the car in the cold before so I never tested the
> heat. So today I take the car out and all I get out of the defroster
or
> heater is cold air. I drove the car some 20 miles but it did not get
> any heat at all. The blower worked well but thats it.
>
> Any recommendations where to start looking? This one is new to me.
>
> Jack
>
> 5823
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 04:47:17 -0700
From: "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: S.S. Shift Plate
Hi List. I was wondering if anyone ever came up with or found a Stainless Steel Shift plate, similar to the one's Ferrari uses. I know that Michael Babb was working on it about a year ago. I think he was discussing the possibility with Dirk Wacker out of Germany. Did anything ever come of it? Or was it deemed impossible because of the tight shift pattern? I still think it would be a neat add-on to the car, if possible.
-Steve Bunnell
#11611
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:16:45 -0500
From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Molded body panels (was Flying DeLorean)
At 10:33 PM 02/11/2001, Steven wrote:
> While surfing the web, I came across a website which built a Flying
>BTTF DeLorean. The odd thing is that they used molded DeLorean body panels
>instead of wasting a real D. Read their story at:
>http://www.codeoneauto.com/frames/bttf_flyingdelorean1.html
Wow -- if they could reproduce those panels in good enough quality, they
might be able to sell them to those of us who like painted D's but would
rather not ruin existing body panels!
- Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL
- DeLorean: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
- Impala SS: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/brakes.htm
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:09:20 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: No Heat?
Joe,
That is true...but if the vacum line to the water valve itself is the
only culprit as Nick refered to...then it would always be hot air
blowing. Even though all the vents are by passed, and it passes cold
air trhough the vents, hot/warm air will always be coming through the
defoger vents for the windshield. I am not sure if the Delorean is
set up the same way, but three cars that I have fixed had a
broken/disconnected vacum line to the water valve and the heat always
came through the defrost vents even when the heat/AC was off! It was
allot noticable as you were driving, standing still you would not
feel it blow at all.
What you are describing is if something is wrong with the vacum lines
in the car causing that bypass door to stay in one position...or the
door is stuck in the AC mode. I hear a vacum test coming on! :-)
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Not so!,
>
> During hot weather when the AC is in use the temperature control is
usually
> kept in the maximum cold position which closes the heater core
> re-circulating door. When this door is closed air entering the
lower plenum
> chamber bypasses the heater core, therefore only unheated air will
enter the
> cabin.
>
> In other words air conditioned cold air will still flow through the
AC vents
> into the cabin even if the hot water valve is wide open.
>
> DMC Joe
> > If that were the case, then he would always have heat since when
> > there is vacum present at the valve it keeps it shut. No vacum
opens
> > that valve.
> >
> > Steve
(Some quotes trimmed by the moderator)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:17:29 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tail light cover screws
You really don't have a lot of choices with rusted, damaged, screws.
First option is to drill them out with a bit made of harder material
than the screw, carbide, diamond, whatever. Second option is a small
grinding tool such as found on hobby tools like the Dremel line, also
some hardware stores have an interesting array of grinding (and cutting)
bits.. This all takes a steady hand and patience. A third (least
desirable) option is a small sharp chisel, (you may have to grind one
down), It's often possible to chisel a slot in a screw head to remove it
with a standard blade screwdriver but don't go crazy, in this situation
you'll be pounding into plastics, use only is if all else fails. The
material can't be all that hard because it's sure easy to mess up the
head with the called for screw driver. Haven't been there yet so don't
know if you can get behind the assemblies, doubt it, but if so, small
vise grips can be used to back the screws out from the inside.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:11:40 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Zilla Reliability
(Moderators note: I belive the comparison of these two items has been covered as much as we need to hear so I'm killing this thread un less something entirely new is brought up)
Mike, Your right, the Zilla products are good products, I don't know of
anyone even me who will question that, I can't see Bob or any engineer
spending time to come up with a mouse trap to fail or to be marginal. My
simple Fixes just come at the problems a different way and they also work
with reliability. I just don't have several years behind me. But time is
flying :>) . As you I'm sure know , between the fans and the power source
there are two methods of protection. Not to start another big bebate, the
circuit breaker that I get calls for to me is overated at 40 amps when the
fans only pull 27 to 28 amps together. I think they should be 30/35 amps, but
people don't want the nussance of a little heat so they put in 40's. Also we
have had several disussions about fusing the fans individually at 20 amps on
each leg. I fuse mine at 15 amps. I have tested new and old, with and w/o
load and the fans are pulling 13 to 14 amps each. Plus, as you know if
wires arn't crimped and soldered properly,
( I use rosin paste flux also ) it will cause them to over heat and melt.
All these problems have been addressed in the The Fan Fail Fix. Plus the
extra wire that luminates the light on the dash as a visual recognition of
power or failure. It's also helpfull to see how the AC is cycling. It does
have it's little +'s.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 17:19:52 -0000
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Interior Trim Removal [was lock probs]
Yes, more questions about locks and our wonderful doors. I am very
nervous about taking off the door trim. The workshop manuals pretty
much say pop it off around the window area. That is a little vague
for me...
My goal is to be able to have access to the lock mechanism 'stuff'.
How much do I have to take off, and how do you recommend taking it
off? This can take hours if necessary, because I want to do it right.
This is passenger side I'm talking about for now. I can get the black
plastic piece off that is around the lock switch and door opener, and
that's about it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:32:32 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA, CCNA" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: S.S. Shift Plate
I actually got waylaid with the development of this. After the Cleveland
show I ended up moving across the country the next week. . .and now I don't
own a DeLorean.
There is one that is for sale locally that I may see if I can get some
measurements off of (as soon as the weather is a bit warmer). To make this
work, I will probably need to get people to volunteer and help me out. Once
I get measurements on one DeLorean, I will probably need to have several
people try out the pattern on their cars and see if we can get a pattern
that is functional for more than just a few cars.
I don't know what type of consistence there is across the line on these
cars, so it may not be feasible. . .but I still want to try. If anyone is
willing to help me out, send me an e-mail at michael(at)babbtechnology.com
and let me know. . .I have a few other ideas that I have been milling around
as well. . .
Thanks!
Michael Babb
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Bunnell [mailto:dmcsteve@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 6:47 AM
To: DMC Mailing List
Subject: [DML] S.S. Shift Plate
Hi List. I was wondering if anyone ever came up with or found a Stainless
Steel Shift plate, similar to the one's Ferrari uses. I know that Michael
Babb was working on it about a year ago. I think he was discussing the
possibility with Dirk Wacker out of Germany. Did anything ever come of it?
Or was it deemed impossible because of the tight shift pattern? I still
think it would be a neat add-on to the car, if possible.
-Steve Bunnell
#11611
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:30:40 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!
Scott, Your correct that the car will only take what it needs as long
as the source can deliver. My builder told me that he test at 2000 (
Factory 3000 ) rpm, 100amp fixed load, ( factory 80 amp load )and he
cranckes up a variable load on top of the fixed load till the
alternator reaches 13 volts. Lower RPM and all comes down in
proporation. That's also why we use a smaller pully for a faster spin
at lower rpm. Original used a small also. At that point 150 amps +/-.
I can't tell you exact, but here is what my builder told me this
morning.
Current draw ( average ): 12vdc
AC Compressor--16 to 18 amps
Wire resistance for compressor add about 20%+ 3.5 amps
De Lorean Cooling Fans= 28 to 30amps
Head lamps depending on dim or bright=10-15 amps
Battery to charge and to keep hot=20-30amps,you can charge as low 3v.
Other,Resistance in wire all over + radio,dome,door=5amps.
On the low side the total is 82.5 amps
On the high side the total is 101.5
As we all know most all these thing may not be on at the same time. I
have not tested all this but it was just a quik summation. Now factor
in heat and how much does it drop. Watch how your gauge,up and down,
hot weather to cold weather, idle to running, loaded to unloaded and
cold alt in morn to hot after running a while. The idea as I see it
is to keep the needle above 13 volts as much as you can in the worst
case. I think DMCJOE said something about 11 or 12 volts a while back
before you start running other trouble. I'll let him expound on that
if he wants to. But:Texas heat, 95 Degree out side, crusing stop and
go at low RPM at night with lights on and air on. That's about the
worst.
If you look at the shop manual, I don't think there is any way to
meet the spec. Oh. and they are talking at 68 degree.
John
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote:
> If I remember correctly, the alternator will only produce the
amount of
> current that the car requires. The rating 105 Amp or 150 Amp is
the maximum
> rated current for the alternator. I am curious though, how much
current can
> the wiring handle between the alternator and the battery?
>
> Scott Mueller
> DOA/DMCNEWS
> 002981
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stian Birkeland
> Subject: [DML] Alternator Question!
>
>
> >
> > I have one question regarding the "new" alternators. I see that
there are
> > various suggestions for replacement alternators...
> >
> > DeLorean Midstates offers a 105 Amp alternator as do Grady and
DMC Joe.
> > Mr. Hervey now offers one with even a higher output (150 I
believe it was)
> >
> > My question is:
> > Is it advisable to replace the original alternator with one with
a much
> > higher output than the original one?
> >
> > Is there a "limit" as to how high output should be in the
DeLorean?
> > What difference is there between the 105 and 150? I have 90amp
with
> FanZilla
> > and I "feel" its enough power for all the systems in the car.
> >
> > Can a very high alternator output damage anything in the
electrical
> system?
> > What about the battery's condition?
> >
> > Just curious...
> >
> > Best wishes
> > Stian Birkeland
> > Norway
> >
> > VIN # 06759 (w/original 90amp Motorola)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:12:31 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Dean Kruse
Lead story in my Sunday Philadelphia Inquirer Automotive section:
Dean Kruse of collectible car auctioneers Kruse Int'l. says: (among other
things)
"As a rule... a car usually makes its biggest jump in value when it reaches
its 20th year, so I advise buying a car when it reaches 16 or 18 years of
age, taking good care of it, and preparing to take advantage of the 20-year
anniversary leap."
FWIW
-Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
(I'm keeping mine anyway!)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:50:54 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Loose vacuum hose...help!
Vacuum input hose from the thermal control valve not connected (#26 on
the emission/evap control parts sheet) to the manifold. Only place that
looks logical is what looks like a grease fitting below on the
manifold. Shouldn't there be a typical hose fitting there? No vacuum
is coming out of the fitting, do you suppose someone stopped it up in
order to disable the vacuum advance? But then, why leave the hose loose
(unless it will no longer fit over this fitting)? Is there any other
possible reason for this manifold fitting? If this is the wrong one, is
there a part # for the correct one? Is there another answer entirely?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:38:17 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: No Heat?
There are many obvious things to check first before going really
deep.
Is the heater still connected? Maybe the core leaked and a previous
owner disconnected the heater hoses. Is the heater valve stuck
closed?
If it leaked and corroded it might not function. Is the cooling
system
filled with anti-freeze and all of the air bled out? If the cooling
system is low on coolant you won't get heat and if the core is full
of
air you still won't. Once you can get the core to heat up now see if
the fan is blowing enough air over it to transfer the heat. Areas to
check are fan rotation, mode switch for vacuum leaks and proper
operation, vacuum motors for proper activation of the duct doors,
etc.
Maybe the motor doesn't have a thermostat so it never really gets
warm
enough to give you heat. A heater hose could be kinked. You get the
idea. A good visual inspection usually turns up the culprit.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I never drove the car in the cold before so I never tested the
> heat. So today I take the car out and all I get out of the
defroster or
> heater is cold air. I drove the car some 20 miles but it did not
get
> any heat at all. The blower worked well but thats it.
>
> Any recommendations where to start looking? This one is new to me.
>
> Jack
>
> 5823
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:35:23 -0500
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting@xxxxxx>
Subject: toronto star article
greetings.
for anyone in the toronto area, go rummaging through your recycling bin and
look for the january 27th edition of the toronto star. in it is a 1/2 page
write-up on the dmc. it appears (from looking at the hood) to be an 82 or
83. it is ontario plate number 251-ABX. does this car belong to anyone on
the list?
Mike Cutting
11434
www.nt.net/~mcutting
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 17:20:55 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Mid atlantic
Dear DML,
If Tom Griepenburg from New Jersey is on the list, please give an email.
Thanks,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 17:44:31 -0500
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Molded body panels (was Flying DeLorean)
what about doors? Those would still have to be painted, and I would imagine
that a painted door next to a painted plastic or fiberglass panel might look
obviously different... I may be wrong.
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
'81 DeLorean Vin 03461 August 1981 Build NYS Lic: 1981 DMC
'97 Red BMW Z3 Convertible 2.8 6 Cyl -- not the baby 4
'99 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer Edition
'01 Black PT Cruiser Limited w/ Flames
For your own FREE Email Account Visit www.sacketmansion.com
<http://www.sacketmansion.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Henderlong [mailto:bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 8:17 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Molded body panels (was Flying DeLorean)
At 10:33 PM 02/11/2001, Steven wrote:
> While surfing the web, I came across a website which built a Flying
>BTTF DeLorean. The odd thing is that they used molded DeLorean body panels
>instead of wasting a real D. Read their story at:
>http://www.codeoneauto.com/frames/bttf_flyingdelorean1.html
Wow -- if they could reproduce those panels in good enough quality, they
might be able to sell them to those of us who like painted D's but would
rather not ruin existing body panels!
- Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL
- DeLorean: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
- Impala SS: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/brakes.htm
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 17:01:55 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Molded body panels (was Flying DeLorean)
Actually that problem was overcome by the auto manufacturers several years
back. The first time Ford painted both plastic and steel was with the Bronco
two which had a plastic tail gate. Now many vehicles have a combination of
steel and plastic body panels.
Bruce Benson
> what about doors? Those would still have to be painted, and I would
imagine
> that a painted door next to a painted plastic or fiberglass panel might
look
> obviously different... I may be wrong.
>
> Jack & Virginia Stiefel
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:02:24 EST
From: azb888@xxxxxx
Subject: finding a delorean owner
Hello List,
I am very big DeLorean enthusiast and I love the car. I do not own a
DeLorean currently but I am saving to buy one someday. I don't really have a
question but I am trying to find a DeLorean owner in Houston Texas. I am not
sure if this person is part of the DML but if you are I would be very happy
if you would reply. I have seen the car entering the Fountainhead
subdivision in north Houston at the Veterans Memorial and Fountainhead
intersection south of FM 1960. I will look for a reply. Thank You.
ALI
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 00:57:47 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: St. Patricks Day Parade Dallas,Tx.
Calling all De Lorean Owners in south plains states
( Tx.,OK.,Ar.,La.,NM.,)
De Lorean Owners of North Texas ( D.O.N.T. ) Have been invited back
this year as a crowd pleasing special intrest entry in the Dallas St.
Pat's parade March, 11th 2pm Dallas.
We are still trying to get everyone organized from the last year! If
your intrested in forming this group or being part of the parade
Please contact.
John Yersky or Bill Winegard
dloreanboy@xxxxxxx
hondopark1@xxxxxxx
dherv10@xxxxxxx
Day:214-522-8436
night:241-522-1868
Entry fee has been paid but we need to know how many
cars,people,dogs,children, ASAP This is a televised event.
John Hervey
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 01:13:13 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Interior Trim Removal
I am very experienced in this area, as I had to take the trim panels
off the door a multitude of times
when I was putting my window back on the tracks.
First, roll down the window of the side you're working on, then take
a slotted screwdriver, and from
the outside, pop the upper trim panel retaining pins out of their
holes. Then, the upper trim panel
should pop out after you get a u-shaped hook out from a hole on the
side of the door toward the rear of the car.
To remove the lower trim panel, remove all of the screws fastening it
to the door. Do not remove the screws
fastening the pull handle/lock button bracket to the door, though.
Remove the plastic piece from around the
latch release & lock, very carefully as it breaks fairly easily. You
can then also unhook the mirror switch so
that is does not get in the way. Then the workshop manual says to,
with a long phillips screwdriver, remove
the screws holding the pull handle to the door. I found this to be
very difficult, and instead, using a slotted
screwdriver, carefully popped the trim panel around the pull handle,
leaving it attached to the door. This
makes reattaching the trim panel much easier. Then pop the lower
trim panel retaining pins out of their
holes, and voila, the lower trim panel comes off. Be careful not to
let the panel drop from the door as you're
removing it, as the little door that can be used to close off the
airflow to the door air vents may fall out,
(I can speak from experience on that, it happened to me on both
doors, and it took me a long time to put
it back in the air vent) hopefully, this will not happen to you.
There should then be only a sheet of plastic
covering the insides of the door, and this can be carefully peeled
back to reach the lock mechanism. When
working on the insides of the door, be very careful not to cut your
hands on the metal, as it is very sharp.
(Experience again, Ow! Used a lot band-aids that day) Leather gloves
are reccommended. Be careful when
opening the doors with the panels off, as they are quite light, and
can fly up very quickly. Also, when working
around the open doors, watch your head! To put the panels back on,
follow the same instructions in reverse.
Pop lower panel retaining pins into holes, tapping lightly with a
rubber mallet helps. Screw in a few screws
at the top, then, using a slotted screwdriver pop the panel back
around the pull handle. Screw in the rest of the
screws. Reattach the mirror switch. Put the plastic thingy back on,
then put the upper trim panel back on, and
you're done. Glad to be of any help.
John Yeoman
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 17:25:29 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tail light problems
I covered this a day or two ago but I've been reading all of the
archived material as quickly as time allows and several fixes have been
mentioned, self tapping screws, wedges, little screws and nuts, etc.
That aint it folks! It's not a problem of things getting loose due to
vibration, It's oxidization, air gets in there and pretty soon no actual
metal to metal contact. The other fixes would work for a long time, if
you drilled out the rivets, did a good cleanup job, and then put the
shims, screws, etc., back. Other than that, there are only two long
term fixes, either solder or replacement. Do it right, you'll be
happier.
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:26:54 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
Hello List,
I am replacing my fuel distributor and cleaning the injectors etc but I
have not started the car yet. Since my car sat I would like to pull the tank
out and clean it. How do I go about cleaning it? I removed the pump, and
the tank really doesnt look that bad inside but the gas has a orange/yellow
tint to it with a few small particles on the bottom of the tank. I will also
be replacing some of the fuel hoses running to the back. does the tank need
to be professionally cleaned? How do I go about removing some of the
components inside the tank? any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have the tank shield removed but I can not get the tank to come out.
The fuel pump and filler line is removed and the tank is empty. any ideas?
I've tried kicking it out from the top but it wont move an inch.
Thanks list
David
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:45:13 EST
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Funny stuff!
After having been gone for a few days and reading several DML's in one
sitting: This is better than most comic strips! Particularily when it comes
to bickering, innuendos, opinions, egos, etc. Keep it up guys!
The tech info will cover and overpower all the funny stuff anyway and THAT is
the important part!
Roger
1074
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:06:04 -0500
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
Jump up and down on it and get a crow bar and get it from the bottom.
Spread the coolant pipes apart and work the back out first. It is tough
but it will pop out. I have done 4 of these so far.
Jack
5823
-----Original Message-----
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Sent: Mon 02.12.2001 08:26 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc:
Subject: [DML] Fuel tank cleaning/removal
Hello List,
I am replacing my fuel distributor and cleaning the
injectors etc but I
have not started the car yet. Since my car sat I would like to
pull the tank
out and clean it. How do I go about cleaning it? I removed the
pump, and
the tank really doesnt look that bad inside but the gas has a
orange/yellow
tint to it with a few small particles on the bottom of the tank.
I will also
be replacing some of the fuel hoses running to the back. does
the tank need
to be professionally cleaned? How do I go about removing some
of the
components inside the tank? any help would be greatly
appreciated.
I have the tank shield removed but I can not get the tank to
come out.
The fuel pump and filler line is removed and the tank is empty.
any ideas?
I've tried kicking it out from the top but it wont move an inch.
Thanks list
David
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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