Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. first problem - help please! (followup)
From: "David Cox" <dmcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: first problem - help please!
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: DMC12's in Australia
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: DMC12's in Australia
From: Chris Spratt <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Looking for part# 105176
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Cold acceleration problem
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Curious: Estimate on body repair
From: bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
8. Re: Testing Used Fuel Pump
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: LA QA Center
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Looking for part# 105176
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Destroying the DeLorean image.
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Hidden treasure-Good Delorean Story
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Looking for part# 105176
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: first problem - help please! (followup)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Stuck drivers side door
From: azelin242@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 22:18:27 -0700
From: "David Cox" <dmcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: first problem - help please! (followup)
Well, the car jump-started easily enough, but as I suspected, as soon as I had made a complete circuit the radiator fans started running. Once I got it home and safely in the garage, I left the motor running and methodically went through every fuse in the fuse box, pulling them one at a time. The fans kept running the whole time. The manual says they're off one of the fuses (forget which one, but it clearly says so). Anyway, this seems to indicate that there is some sort of short which is supplying power directly to those fans. I finally had to disconnect the battery to shut them off. That was about 4 hours ago. A few minutes ago, I reconnected the battery momentarily, and the fans started running immediately, so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with the engine temperature. I was thinking perhaps whatever switch controls the fans might have failed - can this fail into the "on" state? I'll call Don Steger tomorrow - he's done all the past service on this car. Hopefully he'll be able to tell me it is something cheap and easy to fix...
Dave
vin #16367
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:43:07 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: first problem - help please!
You may want to check with someone like DMC Joe about a possible
wiring problem. Even on my car in the summer I bypass the otterstat
to run the fans constantly (better performance from a cooler engine),
but as soon as I turn the key to the "off" position the fans turn off
with all other accessories. To start look inside the electrical
compartment and make sure that all relays have been upgraded, all the
relay & fuse connections are corrosion/dirt free, and that nothing is
burned.
Yes, there was a Q&A center in Irvine Ca. If you check out the FAQ
on the DMC News homepage it contains scans of various documents with
the Irvine address attached.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, David Cox <dmcox@xxxx> wrote:
> I've been driving my new D for about a month now, and I've
encountered my first major problem. It was wet and rainy this
morning and most southern CA drivers are instant idiots (Just add
Water!), so the traffic was horrible - very start and stop. Anyway,
finally got to the office, and as I exited the car, I heard the
radiator fans running. I didn't think too much of it because of the
gridlock, in fact, I expected it, an figured that it meant that my
fans were operating correctly. Unfortunately, I believe that they
did not shut off, but kept running until the battery ran out of
juice. Also, in retrospect, it sounded like they were running louder
than I had heard before (even though the temperature guage had never
gone over 220) The lights were off, no interior lights were on, no
radio, etc.
>
> Assuming that I am correct about the fans staying on, where should
I start to look for this? Any place else anyone would suggest
looking for a battery drain of some type? There has been no prior
evidence of any type of drainage like this, and no indication of a
problem from the previous owner. I'll get the car jump-started at
the end of the workday, and drive it straight home. I can fully
charge the battery there, if needed.
>
> Unrelated question: last night, while at the gas station, a fellow
complimented me on the car, then informed me that he used to live
next to the factory where the Deloreans were built, in Costa Msa, CA
(LA area) I (politely) informed him that the cars were built in
Ireland, then suggested that perhaps this was one of the final
assembly/QA centers. Was one of these in the LA area?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> vin #16367
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> YourName@xxxx -- it's free from <a href="" href="http://www.delorean.com">http://www.delorean.com">
DeLorean Motor Company</a>!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:17:09 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC12's in Australia
About six Right Hand Drive's, at least one of which is an origanal. I have
photo's of each one..they are all immaculate and very well cared for.
Chris P DOC uk RHD researcher.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Webmaster - Michael Robinson" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 4:38 AM
Subject: [DML] DMC12's in Australia
> Gidday.
>
>
> I was wondering if anyone actually knows anything about DMC-12's in
Australia.
>
> Are they here, and if so, where and how much.
>
> Cheers,
> Mike.
> SYDNEY, AU.
>
>
>
> --
> Michael Robinson
> webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.michaelrobinson.cjb.net
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:59:33 +0100 (GMT+01:00)
From: Chris Spratt <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC12's in Australia
Hi Mike
There are several DMC's in Australia. The only problem is to drive them they need to RHD as im sure you know. Unless you get it registered in WA. Check out Rick Haslewood's site the home of one of the Australian Right-hookers
http://members.xoom.com/ozdelorean/
There is another car which has been converted by its owner in Sydney. Rick can put you in touch with them all.
There is one in Tazmania, and an Origional RHD in Perth.
Regards
Chris
Vin 16327
----- Original Message -----
From: "Webmaster - Michael Robinson" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 04:38:06 +0100 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: [DML] DMC12's in Australia
> Gidday.
>
>
> I was wondering if anyone actually knows anything about DMC-12's in Australia.
>
> Are they here, and if so, where and how much.
>
> Cheers,
> Mike.
> SYDNEY, AU.
>
>
>
> --
> Michael Robinson
> webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.michaelrobinson.cjb.net
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
_______________________________________________________________________
FSmail - Get your free web-based email from Freeserve: www.fsmail.net
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:22:15 +0200 (DST)
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Looking for part# 105176
Hi,
I'm looking for a "part# 105176 - wipe/wash con" a.k.a. Lucas 6DA Wiper
Control.
I drive a perfect DeLorean (so far so good), the only thing that never
worked correctly is the wipers. I found out that 105176 is broken (it
rattles and needs jiggling to work as advertised). I reckon that this
part cannot be disassembled/fixed/assembled so I'm looking for a
replacement (original or substitute).
Can anyone help me on this one? Any (un)mounting instructions are also
welcome (the nuts and bolts are fairly unreachable without complete
dissasembly of the stuff below the dash AFAIK).
Thank you,
Sacha
#17115
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 14:23:58 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Cold acceleration problem
This problem is intermittent. One day it runs fine, the next day it won't
accelerate while cold. Any attempt at acceleration is futile until the
engine is warm. Instead the engine idles rough and coughs, sputters and
pops when I press the accelerator. Then the engine won't run well until it
is fully warmed up. If the engine cools for even 30 minutes, the problem
returns.
Here's what I found so far:
When I disconnect the vacuum line connecting the Thermal Vacuum Control
Valve to the Control Pressure Regulator and draw a vacuum on the delayed
side of the Control Pressure Regulator (simulating loss of vacuum due to
acceleration) then the engine runs fine! This indicates that the engine was
running too lean.
When the engine stalls and is restarted, it runs fine for a few seconds.
(Enrichment from cold start valve indicates engine was running too lean
again.)
When the engine is completely cold, the Thermal Vacuum Control Valve opens
to the Control Pressure Regulator and closes to the distributor advance like
it should. (A hand vacuum pump/gauge confirms this.)
After running for two minutes from being completely cold, the Thermal Vacuum
Control Valve closes to the Control Pressure Regulator and opens to the
distributor advance. Is this too soon?
When I have a vacuum gauge/pump tapped into the vacuum line connecting the
Thermal Vacuum Control Valve to the Control Pressure Regulator, drawing a
vacuum does nothing (as it should). Giving the line pressure (while
pinching off the line to the Thermal Vacuum Control Valve) simulates a
vacuum loss due to acceleration. This gives a fuel enrichment spike
allowing normal acceleration for the duration that the spike lasts --
indicating again that the engine is running too lean.
So, is my Thermal Vacuum Control Valve closing too soon and/or not giving
enough vacuum to operate the Acceleration Enrichment Circuit long enough
and/or strong enough? During the short duration that the valve is open, I
get a continuously fluctuating/vibrating vacuum reading of between 19 to 17
in Hg. Is this normal for the reading to bounce so violently? And is 18 in
Hg proper for a Delorean vacuum?
I have tested my Control Pressure Regulator Delay Valve according to D:02:01
step 7 of the Workshop Manual. What should take 10 seconds +/- 2 seconds
instead takes only 3 seconds. So it appears that the Delay Valve is bad,
but if it isn't getting any vacuum in the first place, then it isn't going
to be of much use. Pulling a vacuum in the reverse direction bleeds down
immediately. So am I testing it right?
I don't think the problem could be in the ECU or oxygen sensor because I
have this lean condition even when the Lambda Thermal Switch is above 15C
(59F) and the oxygen sensor is below 300C and therefore not warmed up yet
anyway. If the fuel circulation from the Frequency Valve back to the tank
is restricted then this could cause a lean condition as well. Is this
likely?
Is my problem somewhere else other than the Acceleration Enrichment Circuit?
Such as a vacuum leak elsewhere in the engine?
This is really an annoying problem. Can anyone offer any suggestions?
Help!
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 01:41:53 -0000
From: bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Curious: Estimate on body repair
Take a look here:
http://www.octagonauto.com/Carsforsale.htm
They have a Delorean listed as a 1982, but by
inspection of the pictures it appears to be an
early 81 w/ gas flap and dark wheels. It has
pretty bad damage to the passenger side rear corner.
How much do people think this would cost to fix?
They have the price WAY too high in my opinion,
but was curious how much it would take to fix
assuming that the motor and tranny aren't heavily
damaged.
Also does anyone on the list know this car? It's
in Felton, PA right now.
bruce
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 08:16:01 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Testing Used Fuel Pump
Not to make this a "me too" posting, but take this warning seriously!
A while back I when I replaced the pick up line I my gas tank I got
lazy & decided not to drain the ¾ full gas tank. I tried to use
latex
gloves, but the that blue 92 octane gas basicly ate them slowly. By
that time it was too late to turn back, so I finished the job wearing
no gloves at all. Long story short: The headache from the fuel vapors
didn't go away untill the next afternoon, and my hands were painfully
dry & cracked for a little over a week (burning almost the entire
time). Who knows what else could have happened to me, but don't make
the same mistake!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> The safest way for you to test the pump is to install it in the
> car.Don't play around with a bucket of gasoline and certainly don't
> put water through it.If the car runs with the pump then the chances
> are that it will make a good temporary spare. Too many car hobby
> people have burned cars and hurt themselves with gas. The modern
gas
> that is used today is very toxic. You should not get it on your
skin
> or breath the vapors.There are some very dangerous addidtives and
> prolonged exposure can make you very ill.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 14:43:53 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: LA QA Center
DMC trivia:
Yes, the California QA center still stands. It is on Main Street in
Irvine, across the street from Embassy Suites Hotel. Last time I went
by there it was the "Lea-Joy" company. I believe the address is 2055
Main. I have a recent photo around here but can't find it at the
moment. (Yes, I'm geeky enough to have stopped and taken pictures).
I have no idea what facility was in Costa Mesa, although Costa Mesa
is not very far away from Irvine. Could have been a storage lot, the
POE was Long Beach.
Dave
> > Unrelated question: last night, while at the gas station, a
fellow
> complimented me on the car, then informed me that he used to live
> next to the factory where the Deloreans were built, in Costa Msa,
CA
> (LA area) I (politely) informed him that the cars were built in
> Ireland, then suggested that perhaps this was one of the final
> assembly/QA centers. Was one of these in the LA area?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dave
> > vin #16367
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:30:19 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Looking for part# 105176
Dear Sacha& List:
I have the following avail NOS parts:
SP10065 BULB OEM (FRANCE) 8 $1.62
SP10076 BULB OEM (FRANCE) 10 $0.89
SP10077 BULB OEM (FRANCE) 10 $2.00
SP10304 BULBS 8 $1.17
100156 BUSHING UPPER WISHBONE 4 $11.00
100344 FRONT GRILL 1 $249.00
100408 REAR SHOCK OEM 2 $75.00
100427 REAR WHEEL GRAY 2 $489.00
100523 FUEL FILTER OEM 2 $37.50
100545 W.W. BOTTLE ASM W/MTR NONE $114.00
100547 RADIO FLY LEAD 1 $13.11
100558 A.T. SELECTOR CABLE 1 $45.00
100634 HEADLAMP RETAINER 1 $13.00
100753 TEMP CONTROL SWITCH 1 $26.50
100755 FAN SWITCH 1 $18.00
100778 MOTOR MOUNT 2 $32.00
100814 REOSTATT 1 $75.00
100820 BRAKE LIGHT SW ITCH 2 $4.56
100853 BELL CRANK L.H.LOCK SW 1 $22.65
100901 BUMPER MOUNT 1 $24.06
100928 GASKET,EXH. MFD-PIPE 2 $2.09
101052 IGNITION COIL 1 $34.00
101359 MODE KNOB 1 $5.00
101419 L.H. DR. LOCK W/Lighted KEY 1 $149.00
101420 R.H. DR. LOCK W/Lighted KEY 1 $149.00
101602 HEADLIGHT FILLER R.H. 1 $4.00
101965 CABLE PARK BRAKE L.H. SIDE 1 $24.47
102024 SEAL 2 $14.28
102056 CRANK SPROCKET 1 $21.64
102065 FLEXPLATE 1 $154.11
102119 WATER PUMP OEM 1 $253.85
102135 GASKET WATER PUMP HSG 2 $1.59
102152 GASKET WATER O/L PIPE 3 $0.43
102165 VALVE STEM SEAL 6 $1.75
102170 GASKET 2 $0.80
102249 GASKET ROCKER CVR L.H. 3 $5.58
102256 GASKET ROCKER CVR R.H. 3 $5.98
102263 EXAUST MAN GASKET 2 $16.80
102284 GASKET, INT MANIFOLD 9 $1.57
102345 INJECTOR SUPPORT 6 $2.76
102346 INJECTOR CLIP 4 $0.63
102369 HOLLOW SCREW 1 $0.63
102405 THERMAL C. VALVE 1 $26.22
102414 GASKET 2 $0.33
102415 OIL FILL ASSY NONE $8.60
102443 SPARK PLUGS OEM 10 $4.00
102450 TEMP. SENSOR 1 $9.82
102478 SWITCH LAMBDA SENSOR 1 $9.45
102489 GASKET,MIX CON UNIT 1 $4.78
102512 CLUTCH DISC 1 $101.85
102569 FLYWHEEL T.O. BRNG 2 $15.78
102573 SEAL,CRANK 5 $4.01
102627 VALVE, EXHAUST SET OF 3 1 $65.50
102628 VALVE, INTAKE SET OF 3 1 $22.93
102631 INJECTOR SLEEVE 8 $1.55
102643 VOLTAGE REG. ducellier 1 $171.00
102644 BRUSH SET ALT ducel 1 $7.00
102652 STARTER DRIVE 1 $42.18
102653 STARTER JUMP RING&CUP 1 $2.34
102669 BRUSH SET STARTER 1 $16.70
102702 IGN. SET OEM 1 $61.81
102709 THERMOSTAT OEM 3 $22.06
102742 INJECTOR NOZZEL 2 $30.31
103016 DRAIN PLUG 1 $6.25
103065 NEEDLE BRNG M. TRANS 1 $8.57
103119 CON ROLLER BEARING 2 $40.20
103151 TRANS STOPPER 2 $4.58
103245 CLUTCH THROWOUT BEARING 3 $35.40
103251 CL REL FORK CAP 2 $0.48
103500 GASKET KIT, A/T 2 $80.00
103516 GASKET, FLUID PAN 2 $10.71
103543 OIL SEAL 2 $8.27
103574 LIPSEAL 1 $5.04
103578 SEAL, PLANETARY SET 1 $3.62
103702 STRAINER 1 $49.00
103815 MAG DRAIN PLUG OEM 2 $5.00
104003 SOLENOID A.T. 1 $56.01
104216 LIPSEAL 6 $7.23
105148 RUBBER EXHAUST MOUNT 7 $12.49
105176 WASH/WIPE CONTROL 1 $66.00
105403 FRT FENDER BRKT L.H. 1 $7.45
105665 WIPER ARMS 2 $31.00
105707 LOWER BALL JOINT ASSM 2 $59.00
105851 PRINTED CIRCUIT 1 $31.98
105869 FUEL/OIL GAUGE 1 $95.00
105870 VOLT/TEMP. GAUGE 1 $95.00
106085 25 AMP BREAKER OEM 1 $6.18
106087 W.W. TRAY &COVER 1 $37.00
106269 COOLING RELAY OEM 2 $9.15
106648 ARM RST R.H. BLK 1 $244.00
106716 TRAILING ARM BUSHING 1 $14.00
106907 COIL WIRE OEM 1 $4.00
108165 H.D.RELAY OEM 1 $10.00
108239 CONSOLE CENTER BLK 1 $92.00
108358 TAILIGHT DRIVER SIDE 1 $110.00
108359 TAILIGHT PASS SIDE 1 $110.00
108555 GLOVE BOX LATCH 3 $12.00
108587 FRONT SHOCK OEM 1 $75.00
109040 BRAKE M.C. SVC KIT 1 $15.15
109277 ENERTIA SWITCH 2 $49.00
110085 FUEL PUMP OEM 1 $135.00
BOOK "S.S. ILLUSION" 1 $200.00
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 14:22:49 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Destroying the DeLorean image.
Don't let your frind get discouradged,
There are three other Delorean dealers that I know of that would be
MORE than happy to help out your friend. They are as follows:
- P.J Grady Inc. Rob Grady has alot of experince and is one of the
most helpful guys I have ever met...never snotty or brush off. He
sells parts, restored Deloreans and sevices them. www.pjgrady.com
- DMC Houston Forgive me guys for forgetting your name, but the guys
at DMC Houston also have alot of expierience and they are VERY
helpful. They have a HUGE inventory of parts, sell refurbished
Deloreans and also service them too. They can even repair dented
Stainless panels too. www.delorean.com
- Delorean Services, DMC Joe is another EXTREAMLY helpfull guy. I
have only dealt with him through the DML and email. He will go all
out to help you. He services Deloreans has parts for sale and is very
knowledgable and HELPFUL. He even makes house calls from time to
time. www.deloreanservices.com
>snip<
> Ed answered the phone. All he said was that he had was looking at a
> car that appeared to have some serious transmission problems. And
in
> the worst case, what would it cost to rebuild and/or replace the
> transmission entirely? And Ed's response as he interrupted him
> was: "Well, I have a PAYING customer in front of me right now, so
> goodbye." And he then hung up on him. I don't recommend that anyone
> go out and purchase a DeLorean, because it is alot of
responsibility.
> I always say that if they really want one they need to read up on
the
> car and learn more about it first, and then decide for themselves.
> But for someone who is looking into buying a item that they've
always
> wanted (especially their own dream car), having someone like Ed
> shatter that dream in a split second due to a snotty remark such as
> that can be very crushing. The point of my letter: I've seen alot
of
> talking about who or what is a problem. Some have said that the DML
> has caused prices to plummet. And I've even seen postings elsewhere
> that things such as Project Vixen are killing the image of the
> DeLorean as well. None of this is true! They have helped to promote
> the image of the car as well as make it more of a reality. People
> like Ed Bernstein are the ones that are destroying the car with
their
> egos, attitudes, and business practices. In the end, I introduced
my
> friend here to the DML.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:03:41 -0700
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hidden treasure-Good Delorean Story
[non-moderator's note: Worthless idle chat follows.]
Are you sure that that's not the one the second owner lost? Maybe he just
THOUGHT it went out into the snow? :)
I just bought one from DMC Houston (I assume it's one of Lee's
reproductions) and they are really nice. Haven't had it cut yet though and
I'm a little nervous about them screwing it up. What a waste THAT would be!
Can't wait to see the ones with the lights in them.
--Rob Hook
----- Original Message -----
From: <billschaferabn@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 8:25 PM
Subject: [DML] Hidden treasure-Good Delorean Story
>
>
> When I bought my car I was disappointed when the previous owner informed
me
> that he had somehow dropped his original key in the snow and lost it. So I
> have never seen an original issue Delorean key.
>
> Well I was working on my emergency brake unit in the car and decided to
> remove the old support braket to get a better look at things. In the
process
> of doing all this I lifted up the carpets on the drivers side and got
right
> down to the fiberglass floor. As I was lifting the carpets up I found an
> original "D" key from the first owner who must have put it there as a
spare
> key and didn't tell the second owner. So I am now in possession of one of
my
> cars original issue keys that works like a charm. What a pleasant surprise
> and a real treasure to find.
>
> Bill (11096)
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:04:57 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Looking for part# 105176
Sacha,
DMC Houston has plenty of these items in stock.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Sacha Prins <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 5:22 AM
Subject: [DML] Looking for part# 105176
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for a "part# 105176 - wipe/wash con" a.k.a. Lucas 6DA Wiper
> Control.
>
> I drive a perfect DeLorean (so far so good), the only thing that never
> worked correctly is the wipers. I found out that 105176 is broken (it
> rattles and needs jiggling to work as advertised). I reckon that this
> part cannot be disassembled/fixed/assembled so I'm looking for a
> replacement (original or substitute).
>
> Can anyone help me on this one? Any (un)mounting instructions are also
> welcome (the nuts and bolts are fairly unreachable without complete
> dissasembly of the stuff below the dash AFAIK).
>
> Thank you,
>
> Sacha
> #17115
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:25:48 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: first problem - help please! (followup)
David,
It sounds as if the previous owner has done some wiring modifications. The
cooling fans receive power through the "RUN" circuit. If the fans operate
with the ignition key off or removed the fans are connected directly to the
battery. Try the following test to determine if the wiring change is ahead
or behind the cooling fan relay.
Remove the cooling fan relay (LOCATION: electrical compartment front row of
relays second from left or six from the right.) Let me know the result of
this test and I'll tell you where to look next.
The CA Quality Assurance Center was located in Santa Ana.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: David Cox <dmcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 1:18 AM
Subject: [DML] first problem - help please! (followup)
> Well, the car jump-started easily enough, but as I suspected, as soon as I
had made a complete circuit the radiator fans started running. Once I got
it home and safely in the garage, I left the motor running and methodically
went through every fuse in the fuse box, pulling them one at a time. The
fans kept running the whole time. The manual says they're off one of the
fuses (forget which one, but it clearly says so). Anyway, this seems to
indicate that there is some sort of short which is supplying power directly
to those fans. I finally had to disconnect the battery to shut them off.
That was about 4 hours ago. A few minutes ago, I reconnected the battery
momentarily, and the fans started running immediately, so it doesn't seem to
have anything to do with the engine temperature. I was thinking perhaps
whatever switch controls the fans might have failed - can this fail into the
"on" state? I'll call Don Steger tomorrow - he's done all the past service
on this car. Hopefully he'll be able to tell me it is something cheap and
easy to fix...
>
> Dave
> vin #16367
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:48:50 -0000
From: azelin242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Stuck drivers side door
I was offered a DeLorean today, in very good condition cosmeticly and
mechanicly, but the seller informed me of one problem with the car.
The drivers side door is locked in the shut position and won't open.
Is this a common problem? I've heard about the solenoid problems, and
I thought maybe it was that. Has anyone heard of this kind of thing
before? Is it easy or hard to fix, and how much would it cost to
repair?
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