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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Tire Pressures
From: "William H. Swilley" <billswilley@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Part 2 flat tires - warning and question
From: heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: The real cost of a Delorean
From: Philip Lawton <philip_lawton@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble.P2..
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: flat tires - warning and question
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: tires
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: The real cost of a Delorean
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
11. DeLorean spotted
From: gullwing99@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Brake Problem
From: "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd@xxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Model Year
From: ratfink@xxxxxxxxx
16. Hey! Don't call our cars 'cheap'!
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: Hot Start Problem
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Model Year
From: comet6974@xxxxxxxx
19. Re: Voltage problem on other car
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
20. sighting in STL
From: "Todd Masinelli" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Brake Problem
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Tire Pressures
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. DMC @ Fort Worth TX Coors plant
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
24. Cracked Seats?
From: dmcdelorean2@xxxxxxx
25. Re: Digital Dashboard
From: tahoe98@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:51:33 GMT
From: "William H. Swilley" <billswilley@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tire Pressures
Mark Noeltner has a good deal of experience auto crossing with the DeLorean.
I'm curious as to the tire pressures he has found to be best for that
event when riding on the Yokos.
He recently wrote:
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 20:12:28 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tires
The front is a 195/60-14 and the rear is a 235/60-15. A lot of tires don't
have BOTH of these sizes available. I highly recommend keeping both the
front and the rear the same model of tire if you drive the car very much.
Different models can affect handling drastically.
I personally recommend the Yokohama AVS Intermediate......
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:35:56 -0000
From: heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Part 2 flat tires - warning and question
> You should never have a DeLorean towed; standard towing could damage
>fascia's and adjoining panels and fenders. Always specify a flatbed !
Joe,
What about the tow trucks that only lift the car by "scoops" or bars
under the front wheels? They then tie hold down straps around the
wheels/tires to the scoops. No body parts are even touched.
Also, can towing this way do any damage to the trans-axle?
-Hank
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:38:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Philip Lawton <philip_lawton@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The real cost of a Delorean
The report on the DeLorean motor company revealed
that
"over $17 million$ dollars had been misappropriated".
Although I do not know the no. of cars made , iam sure
someone could easily work it out.
=====
Do not read this message.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:39:30 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
Nathan,
It could be the Throw out Bearing that is sticking. It's not uncommon
that the Throw out bearing sticks since water and/or debris can get
into the bell housing of the tranny (don't let the rubber boot on the
housing fool you). Unfortunately if it is the Throw out bearing you
will have to remove to tranny from the car to replace it. If it is an
intermittent "sticking" problem than it may well be the Throw Out
bearing that is causing it.
If you can get to the slave cylinder with your hand, WITHOUT STARTING
THE CAR (safety) you can have a friend press on the clutch pedal. As
he presses the clutch down, feel the movement of the clutch fork. It
should be smooth. If at any point the pedal is being pressed and the
clutch fork does not move or moves marginally then moves all the way
to the "clutch released position", you have a sticking component.
Also as he releases the clutch, feel if the clutch fork moves back
into place smoothly. It shouldn't be jerky or release after the
clutch pedal was released some time after. It should all happen
approx the same time. Of course if it is intermittent, you will have
to do it a few times.
I would also check the fluid level in you tranny.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
> On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my
delorean started
> exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
> First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher
mileage/daily
> driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but
that's
> another story.
> Anyways, it seems the clutch is slipping or sticking. You let the
clutch
> out and for a minute the revs stay higher and then a second later
the revs
> drop for the new gear. It does this off and on(sometimes it doesn't
> occur--the car shifts fine) primarily in 1, 2,3 gears. It almost as
if the
> clutch doesnt disengage in the new gear after youve shifted-- as if
it is
> sticking and then works it way loose. The car definently shifts
gears and
> stays in gear--so it doesn't appear to be a tranny(gear) problem.
> The obvious answer is to check the clutch fluid. I'm getting set
to do
> that now. I guess you use clutch or DOT3 brake fluid to refill??
This is my
> first hydralic clutch car. I haven't seen any leaks so if it is
low, what
> happened? (Can it evaporate over time?)
> Secondly(gulp), what other possibilities am I looking at. Is
there
> something else before I have to investigate the clutch. The clutch
itself
> appears solid with no problems before this. It did have a solid
feel before
> this problem. Can anyone help??
> Thanks.
>
>
> Nathan E. Green
> gzen21@xxxx
>
> "If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're
gonna' see
> some serious s--t"
> -Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:41:26 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble.P2..
I would also check that there is no air in your clutch hydraulics.
The cluctch uses DOT4 fluid. Don't use DOT3.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
> On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my
delorean started
> exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
> First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher
mileage/daily
> driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but
that's
> another story.
> Anyways, it seems the clutch is slipping or sticking. You let the
clutch
> out and for a minute the revs stay higher and then a second later
the revs
> drop for the new gear. It does this off and on(sometimes it doesn't
> occur--the car shifts fine) primarily in 1, 2,3 gears. It almost as
if the
> clutch doesnt disengage in the new gear after youve shifted-- as if
it is
> sticking and then works it way loose. The car definently shifts
gears and
> stays in gear--so it doesn't appear to be a tranny(gear) problem.
> The obvious answer is to check the clutch fluid. I'm getting set
to do
> that now. I guess you use clutch or DOT3 brake fluid to refill??
This is my
> first hydralic clutch car. I haven't seen any leaks so if it is
low, what
> happened? (Can it evaporate over time?)
> Secondly(gulp), what other possibilities am I looking at. Is
there
> something else before I have to investigate the clutch. The clutch
itself
> appears solid with no problems before this. It did have a solid
feel before
> this problem. Can anyone help??
> Thanks.
>
>
> Nathan E. Green
> gzen21@xxxx
>
> "If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're
gonna' see
> some serious s--t"
> -Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:50:12 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: flat tires - warning and question
On the subject of the spare tire, dismount from the rim and apply a
camel product called Bead Sealer to the rim, any large tire shop
should have some and then remount the tire on the rim. It is a thick
rubbery product that helps seal the tire bead. It doesn't need to be
balanced. On the subject of what to do with the flat there are
several
choices,
1 leave tire
2 leave passenger
3 leave tire and passenger
4 place tire on engine cover and bungee cord the rear louvre
It is good to keep a towel or large plastic bag in your emergency kit
to place the tire in.
If you have a luggage rack it would be a good time to use it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Daniel P. Saulnier" <dps@xxxx> wrote:
> I got a flat tire last night and would like to share some insights:
> 1) The spare is very old. It looked great, and when I put it on
the car
> and lowered the jack, everything seemed fine. After driving 3 feet,
> however, all the pressure leaked out. Bummer at midnight on a work
night.
> 2) No amount of coaxing will enable a rear tire to fit into the
trunk. The
> only place it will fit is the passenger seat. If you get a flat,
you have
> to choose whether to abandon your tire or your passenger.
Fortunately, I
> didn't have a passenger. But I did have a large towel (which I
recommend
> for everyone's 'emergency tools' kit) to protect my NEW leather
seats from
> the tire.
> 3) AAA is a wonderful service, and if you ask, they will send a
flatbed.
> The driver stopped off for a disposable camera, and used up all the
film on
> my car.
>
> I also have some questions. Does anyone know if the spare can be
fixed?
> May it just need to be pulled from the rim and remounted? If so,
can any
> tire place do this? Also, when I got home it looked like the
alignment
> between the rear fascia and the stainless quarter panels had shifted
> (although it was dark, and I was tired, so I could be wrong). Has
anyone
> experienced this after towing?
>
> Dan.
> VIN:05804
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:53:23 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car
What are you using to measure the voltage? Do not rely on the Volt
meter on the dash.
It sounds as if your alternator is about to go. As the car is
running, open the engine compartment and listen for any noises coming
from the alternator. If you hear any type of a whistling sound coming
from it (or any other strange noise) I would suspect the alternator.
Also take a Volt meter and check the voltage coming directly off the
alternator. Connect your ground wire to the case of the alternator
(scape any dirt off the case to get a clean matal contact surface)
not to the chassis. By doing this you won't take into factor of (if
there are any) bad grounds in the car. If it is normal then take a
few readings in varios places on the car. At the Battery terminals,
fuse box, etc... If the voltage is lower than the reading you got
from the alternaor at any point, then you may have a bad ground
somewhere. All garages can check your alternator/battery easily with
their equipment without taking any of the components out. It's not
that expensive, probably around $30-$40 if not cheaper.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxx> wrote:
> Great, now my other D' is giving me a voltage problem. This one
has the
> original Motorola Alternator with 6400 miles on it. When I first
start the
> car the voltage is like 10V, and I now my meter is not wrong
because the
> stero and lights do not work or are dim, but If I rev the engine to
3000
> rpms, the voltage goes to just above 13 and stays there. I can
drive
> around, and the voltage stays where it is suposed to be, but if I
turn it
> off and on again, the voltage goes down to almost nothing, whats my
problem?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:01:20 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Problem
If you let the car sit over night and you go to start it, does it
take long for it to start also? If you may be losing fuel pressure
somewhere.
I would suspect the fuel accumulator.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Gregory M Scalia <gmscalia@xxxx> wrote:
> I had this. To the point where I would flatten the battery.
Eventually a wise old Volvo mechanic told me that this was a problem
with the leaking injectors. We replaced all these and the problem is
a lot better...although not perfect.
>
> ----------
> From: Stian Birkeland[SMTP:dmc_norway@xxxx]
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:28 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Hot Start Problem
>
>
> Hello all,
> I recently installed a new fuel pump. The car has run fine the last
week,
> but does have a strange hot start problem.
>
> If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the
engine for
> 5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!
>
> Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off
the engine
> for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to
crank it at
> least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!
>
> Does anyone have any idea to what causes this?
>
> I would guess that if I really had a serious hot start problem
(fuel
> accumulator problem), then it wouldn't even start when I parked on
short
> times or start at all. Point is, eventually I do get it started its
just
> very slow. I thinking of fuel pressure. Ideas anyone? Since the
fuel pump is
> new, I also doubt that it can be a leaking check valve.
>
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
>
> VIN # 06759
>
______________________________________________________________________
___
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http://www.hotmail.com.
>
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>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> moderator@xxxx
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:04:13 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tires
Do not throw away the tires yet. If properly stored and there is no
cracking in the sidewalls and the tread is good and no delaminations
you could carefully drive on the tires. Run your hand over the
sidewalls on both sides and the tread, if you feel a bubble or a
ridge
the tire is delaminating. Keep the proper air pressure in them 23
front and 30 rear and you will get some life out of them. On the
other
hand if you want piece of mind and better performance by all means
change the tires. There are a lot of opionions as to what is best.
Consult the Delorean venders for their experiance. As to the old
tires
put them on E-bay there is a market for them. They could be worth as
much as $100 each. If you choose to change the rims keep the old ones
they are also worth alot and are hard to come by.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, delorean31@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 9/18/00 5:56:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> louiegolden@xxxx writes:
>
> << Hi,
> The DeLorean I am about to buy has 6,700 miles and still has the
original
> tires. I am sure they need replacing. Can anyone recommend a good
tire? My
> town only has a Firestone and a Goodyear dealers. I would like to
know
> prices, and what size of tires I need. I tried to look up this info
on the
> DMC News site, but my computer said the page couldn't be shown.
Thank you for
> your help-
> Louie Golden (nc)
> #6827 (hopefully!) >>
>
>
> Go to www.tirerack.com and get the Yokohama AVS Intermediate. You
cant get a
> better set or a better price than there. Hope this helps
>
> Gary Gore
> Activities Director
> DeLorean Mid Atlantic
> VIN 3360
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 12:28:57 EDT
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: The real cost of a Delorean
I am sure we have all heard funny stories from people at car shows. This
reminds me of one person I met at a show. He told me I shouldn't drive the
car because it was worth about a hundred thousand. No matter what I said he
wouldn't believe me on the cars value. He was telling me I was wrong no
matter how I explained it to him. Finally I just laughed and said, "OK youre
right its worth 100,000 but today you can have it for half price :-)"
Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360
<< Just do what I do: when people ask me how much my DeLorean costs I just
tall them "a hundred thousand dollars" that satisfies most. Keep in mind that
the average person considers the DeLorean in the same class as the
Lamborghini so the 100k sounds right.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com> >>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 13:20:21 EDT
From: gullwing99@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean spotted
Hello,,,,,,,,my family and I went to Amish country this weekend near
Sugar Creek Ohio,,and next to that in Berlin Ohio,,,I saw a DeLorean parked
on the side of the road,,,,,,,didn't have a chance to get over to it and get
the vin but I just wondered if it was anyone on here. if
so,,,,,,,e-mail,,,,,,like to say hi,,,,,
p.s. looked as if it was in really good shape
J.B. Vincent
vin: 16709
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 17:42:23 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car
Clean the ground connections on your car. Most important: Negative
cable on the battery, ground point for the starter under the coolant
bottle (on chassis), and the front connection point (remove the brake
master cylinder access panel to reach). Had the exact same promblem
that you have. Cleaned the ground conections and it was like
installing a new alternator! I just removed the bolts and cleaned the
bolts, nuts, chasiss metal, and the harness connection with foamy
engine brite. Quick, easy, and didn't damage the epoxy. Start from
there and work you way down to the lesser ground points.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxx> wrote:
> Great, now my other D' is giving me a voltage problem. This one
has the
> original Motorola Alternator with 6400 miles on it. When I first
start the
> car the voltage is like 10V, and I now my meter is not wrong
because the
> stero and lights do not work or are dim, but If I rev the engine to
3000
> rpms, the voltage goes to just above 13 and stays there. I can
drive
> around, and the voltage stays where it is suposed to be, but if I
turn it
> off and on again, the voltage goes down to almost nothing, whats my
problem?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:21:50 -0400
From: "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Problem
Hello List, My Girlfriend and I were driving around this weekend looking at
houses in several different neighborhoods. After spending a half hour or
hour stopping and going, on the brakes off the brakes etc. the brake peddle
was starting to get "squishy"...it would almost touch the floor. Before the
trip I had a good firm peddle. After waiting for just a couple of minutes
the firm peddle would come back, but after some more stop and go it would
get squishy again. My first thought is that there may be moisture in the
system that is either getting hot or "boiling" causing this condition. Any
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Dennis Lowery
Vin. 4797
Oct 81
P.S. I'm going the Richmond VA British car show this weekend. I'm Leaving
Saturday morning From my home in Woodbridge VA ( about 20 miles south of
Washington D.C. on the I-95 corridor) If anyone would like to caravan. Or
maybe I could meet up with an existing caravan. Please let me know at my
NEW e-mail address Ratfink@xxxxxxxxxxxx <~~~Pretty cool huh?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 14:36:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car
Joe,
Check to be sure that the field/warning light wire, (brown/yellow), is properly connected to the alternator.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Palatinus
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:30 PM
Subject: [DML] Voltage problem on other car
Great, now my other D' is giving me a voltage problem. This one has the
original Motorola Alternator with 6400 miles on it. When I first start the
car the voltage is like 10V, and I now my meter is not wrong because the
stero and lights do not work or are dim, but If I rev the engine to 3000
rpms, the voltage goes to just above 13 and stays there. I can drive
around, and the voltage stays where it is suposed to be, but if I turn it
off and on again, the voltage goes down to almost nothing, whats my problem?
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 21:10:54 -0000
From: ratfink@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Model Year
Yesterday I had my Delorean inspected. When the mechanic finished he
asked me what model year it was, and I told him it was an 81. He
must
have see the door sill plate and the manufacture date of Oct 81, and
said it should be an 82. He said that anything after Sept was
considered an 82. Anybody have any insight? It seems the big 3
brings out it's new model year in sept., But I imagine they start
building the new model in July or August. Soooo, whats the deal? It
just made me think.
Dennis Lowery
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 15:17:08 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hey! Don't call our cars 'cheap'!
This is an FYI about a website at:
http://www.autopictures.com/delorean/index.html
That has several pictures taken from other owners websites (my own included)
and it also contains the following:
"The car was funded by the British Government which though John Delorean
left them with a cheap car and took much of the development money from the
project for himself."
I have written to 'Dusko Jocic' but my request to have the offending
information altered has gone unheeded and unanswered.
Personally, I don't want photos of my car associated with a website that
denigrates the car and the man and I doubt any of you do either.
The 'webmaster's' e-mail address is newcarpage@xxxxxxxxxxx
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 23:05:00 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Hot Start Problem
Steve - When I let the car sit overnight it starts right up the next
morning. The cold start valve is new. No problem. Its the hotstarts that are
difficult. I think the accumulator must be changed, yes.
Best wishes
Stian
>From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: Hot Start Problem
>Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:01:20 -0000
>
>If you let the car sit over night and you go to start it, does it
>take long for it to start also? If you may be losing fuel pressure
>somewhere.
>
>I would suspect the fuel accumulator.
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Gregory M Scalia <gmscalia@xxxx> wrote:
> > I had this. To the point where I would flatten the battery.
>Eventually a wise old Volvo mechanic told me that this was a problem
>with the leaking injectors. We replaced all these and the problem is
>a lot better...although not perfect.
> >
> > ----------
> > From: Stian Birkeland[SMTP:dmc_norway@xxxx]
> > Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:28 AM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [DML] Hot Start Problem
> >
> >
> > Hello all,
> > I recently installed a new fuel pump. The car has run fine the last
>week,
> > but does have a strange hot start problem.
> >
> > If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the
>engine for
> > 5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!
> >
> > Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off
>the engine
> > for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to
>crank it at
> > least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!
> >
> > Does anyone have any idea to what causes this?
> >
> > I would guess that if I really had a serious hot start problem
>(fuel
> > accumulator problem), then it wouldn't even start when I parked on
>short
> > times or start at all. Point is, eventually I do get it started its
>just
> > very slow. I thinking of fuel pressure. Ideas anyone? Since the
>fuel pump is
> > new, I also doubt that it can be a leaking check valve.
> >
> > Best wishes
> > Stian Birkeland
> > Norway
> >
> > VIN # 06759
> >
>______________________________________________________________________
>___
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> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
>address:
> > moderator@xxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 16:25:07 -0700
From: comet6974@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Model Year
If You look at the VIN, there should be a combination of two leters next
to the production number, BD is an 81, CD is an 82 and DD is an 83,
Trevor Johnson
Vin Numbers 6974 & 4055 Both BD
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:57:49 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Voltage problem on other car
Joe,
Most likley you have a bad regulator in the alternator. At or around 1500
rpm's the alternator is doing all it can. If you haven't seen the top side of
13 volt then you should replace the alternator. I build the De Lorean 140 amp
and it will end the voltage and current problems.$195.00 exchange. goto
www.specialTauto.com
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 18:24:53 -0500
From: "Todd Masinelli" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sighting in STL
In case the owner of the car with IL license plates "GLWNG 1" (or something
very similar) is on the list...
I spotted you on the Poplar Street Bridge this morning, and just wanted to
thank you for brightening up the end of a very dull commute. Nice car!
On the other hand, since I decided to purchase a brand new Mustang a couple
of weeks ago and hold off on buying a DeLorean until later, you also ruined
the rest of my day by giving me a serious case of buyer's regret! Wanna
trade cars? (Can't blame a guy for trying...)
_________________________
Todd Masinelli
webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.jackiechan.net
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 00:12:18 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
The best thing to do is to flush the system with castrol gtlma dot 4
brake fluid. This may cause the old seals to leak so be prepared to
rebuild the brale system soon after. You may also have a bad brake
hose, when it gets hot and you step on the pedal it ballons up at a
weak spot. This is very dangerous and should be checked out
IMMEDIATLY. Have a helper step on the pedal while you inspect the
hoses.
I hope to also see you in va.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hello List, My Girlfriend and I were driving around this weekend
looking at
> houses in several different neighborhoods. After spending a half
hour or
> hour stopping and going, on the brakes off the brakes etc. the
brake
peddle
> was starting to get "squishy"...it would almost touch the floor.
Before the
> trip I had a good firm peddle. After waiting for just a couple of
minutes
> the firm peddle would come back, but after some more stop and go it
would
> get squishy again. My first thought is that there may be moisture
in the
> system that is either getting hot or "boiling" causing this
condition. Any
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis Lowery
> Vin. 4797
> Oct 81
>
> P.S. I'm going the Richmond VA British car show this weekend. I'm
Leaving
> Saturday morning From my home in Woodbridge VA ( about 20 miles
south of
> Washington D.C. on the I-95 corridor) If anyone would like to
caravan. Or
> maybe I could meet up with an existing caravan. Please let me
know
at my
> NEW e-mail address Ratfink@xxxx <~~~Pretty cool huh?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 19:37:21 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tire Pressures
Hi Bill! Good to hear from you!
I can't say that I have a LOT of experience autocrossing the DeLorean.
Since it really isn't classed competitively in SCCA autocross we run our
Miata most of the time. Still it's fun to get out and run the D occasionally.
I found that with the Yokohama AVS-I tires I only had to bump the pressures
up a little bit to get good performance. The pressures listed in the owners
manual for "Continuous High Speed Driving" are close. The manual says
29F/34R. I went a littl higher in the front to reduce sidewall rollover
during hard cornering, and ended up at 32F/33R on an asphalt surface. On a
rough concrete surface I would bump it up 2 or 3 pounds at both ends. With
any other model tire I would start a little higher than that and work down
from there while watching sidewall rollover on the front. Temperatures at
the event could cause these pressures to be off a little, but will get you
in the ball park.
We'll be running the D again at the St. Louis Region SCCA event at Gateway
International Raceway in Madison, Illinois on October 22nd. We'll be out on
the parking lot, not the track since this is autocross, not wheel-to-wheel.
Come on out and join us if you're in the area that weekend! Details are at
the club web site: http://www.midstatedmc.com/ under Events.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 01:51 PM 9/19/00 GMT, you wrote:
>Mark Noeltner has a good deal of experience auto crossing with the DeLorean.
> I'm curious as to the tire pressures he has found to be best for that
>event when riding on the Yokos.
>
>He recently wrote:
>
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 20:12:28 -0500
> From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: tires
>
>The front is a 195/60-14 and the rear is a 235/60-15. A lot of tires don't
>have BOTH of these sizes available. I highly recommend keeping both the
>front and the rear the same model of tire if you drive the car very much.
>Different models can affect handling drastically.
>
>I personally recommend the Yokohama AVS Intermediate......
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:42:02 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: DMC @ Fort Worth TX Coors plant
Hello,
My brother moved down to Ft Worth texas this summer and I just heard from
him. He said there is a DeLorean parked in the Coors beer plant parking lot
that never moves. Does anyone on the list know about this car? just curious
to see if anyone has seen this car before. It looks to be in exellent shape
but he said he doesnt even know if it is ever driven. I think there are a
few people on the list in FT Worth, go check it out!
later
David
#2496-
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:48:08 EDT
From: dmcdelorean2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Cracked Seats?
Hey,
Yesterday I decided that I really had to do something about my bad seats.
They were really worn and cracked. I was looking into prices and were too
much for me. So anyways, I was looking at Tamir's DeLorean Site
(www.entermyworld.com) and noticed how his were dyed black. Well I decided to
do my own little home project and dyed my seats black. I just want to say
that the dye really covered the cracks and worn spots. The seats look
incredible, and they are truely a wonderful combination to have in the grey
interior. It truely looks like a 2-tone interior, I am so glad I did it. My
Delorean looks incredible now. First I had to remove the both seats from the
car. Next I gave the seats a good scrub with like window cleaner, then dried
off, and took the back piece off. I started with the back piece and all the
hidden spaces. Then did the rest. I put 2 coats of black leather dye, when
they dried I rubbed it with a soft cloth. After I was done I used shoe polish
spray on it. And I was done. Alot of money saved and a nice addition to the
car.
Chris
Rahway, NJ
VIN 11388
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 01:20:44 -0000
From: tahoe98@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Digital Dashboard
I would agree that Dakota Digital would be the best bet. I just
recently ordered a cruise control system from them & I was VERY
impressed. I am seriously considering the digital dashboard from
them as well. I will post if I choose to do this.
Regards,
Ben Boatright
VIN 10115
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Jason Perkins <jperkins@xxxx> wrote:
> Dakota Digital has offered to make me a custom Digital Dash if I
want. You
> would have to send them your Dash, so they could get the fittings
right
> though.
>
> http://www.dakotadigital.com/
>
> Jason Perkins
> Vin # 16665
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gerald Deutsch [mailto:Jerry1@e...]
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 1999 1:15 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Digital Dashboard
>
>
> JC Whitney sells a generic digital dash that might work in the D. I
know
> someone who bought one and he plans to install it when he can in
his D.
> When/if he gets it done, I'll be sure to post it to the list. ---Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Monday, August 02, 1999 12:16 AM
> Subject: [DML] Digital Dashboard
>
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >I'm not a D-Owner yet, but I was just wondering;
> >
> >Does any-one know if there's a "standard" Digital dashboard
available for
> D's?
> >I mean, can I just buy one that would fit, or would you have to
build
> something yourself?
> >
> >The D is a REALLY beautiful car, very futuristic, but the dash
looks SO
> old-fashioned,
> >something like in KITT (from KnightRider) woul look MUCH cooler if
you
> asked me.
> >
> >Pleas Understand me correct: I do NOT want comments like "You
shouldn't
> mess withe a D's
> >look", this list isn't ment for that, I just want to know wether
to buy or
> to buil
> >yourself.
> >
> >Greetings from The Netherlands,
> >
> >Jan van de Wouw
> >Think Different... Use a Mac... Drive a DeLorean...
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address
> moderator@xxxx
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
> moderator@xxxx
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