[DML] Digest Number 1818
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[DML] Digest Number 1818
- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 3 Jan 2004 00:45:27 -0000
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Cat problems
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
2. Re: lambda reading
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
3. RE: Cat problems
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: deloreans insurance
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. ETDOC
From: "William Bowie" <wbowie@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Delco Alternator Mod
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Cat problems
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Tail Light Fix - UPDATE
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Ruined engine
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Cat problems
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: PRV Octane
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Universial Studio's Florida
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. DeLoreanCar Show Magazine
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
15. RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Cat problems
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: Cat problems
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. RE: Tail Light Fix - UPDATE
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. my delorean website registry
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Cat problems
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
21. Ruined Engine, Our DMC and More...
From: "Heather" <hnwwoodzell@xxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: ETDOC
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re:Rack & Pinion Rebuild
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Universial Studio's Florida
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 19:07:31 EST
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cat problems
Try one of those ultrasonic pet repellers. They are silent yet keep most
animals away from things they shouldn't be in to. Check online, I think most
stores like Wal-Mart have them, but check first.
Patrick
1880
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 19:10:15 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: lambda reading
In a message dated 1/1/04 5:53:12 PM Central Standard Time,
simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
hi i have a delorean from canada its an 1983 in kilometers,it has
22000km {13000 miles} the white box under the dash by footwell
where the speedo cable goes into reads 78 can anyone tell me if this
is right and what it means thanks simon
<<<<<<<<<,
Simon,
The lambda counter represents a % of 30,000 miles for when to replace your
lambda sensor. the 78 means the sensor's life is 78% expired (30,000 miles x
.78 = 23,400). since your speedo indicates you have 13,000 miles, i would
suspect that the lambda counter has been replaced with a different used one, your
upper speedo cable or speedometer was not hooked up for who knows how long, or
the miliage has been tampered with. in any case, your known miliage on the
car is suspect and probably inaccurate unless the counter was replaced with a
different used one. the speedometer system is a terribly weak part of the car.
At 100%, the counter will cause the lambda light to illuminate. reset the
counter with a u-shaped paperclip once you replace the sensor.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 18:37:04 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cat problems
I have a pretty good cat repeller.
His name is Mojo, and he is a 125 lb. Rottweiller.
No cats 'round here.
- VB
VIN#5278
[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 18:47:02 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: deloreans insurance
I know James LaLonde is sort of an expert on this insurance issue, i
believe he always says go with Stated Value. He told me to use Stated
value.
James any comment?
Mark
On Thursday, January 1, 2004, at 01:34 PM, mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
wrote:
> I disagree - you want an Agreed Value policy, not Stated Value. There
> is a significant difference. Agreed Value means that the insurance
> company agrees with the valuation you have put on the car. Stated
> Value
> policies don't have that acknowledgement from the insurance company.
>
> Bottom line is to talk to your agent. Ask questions about what
> happens if
> you have to file a claim. The conditions you need to know about are
> damages
> over your deductible but below the total loss limit, total loss
> valuation,
> buyback policies, and where can you get the car repaired. If you want
> the
> car done by a specialist, will the company pay for transportation? If
> they
> won't give you written responses, find another insurance agent or
> company.
>
> --
> Mike
>> The safest way to insure your Delorean is with a Stated Value policy
>>
>> This was there is no question what the car is worth when it is
>> totaled.
>>
>> It only cost a few dollars more and is worth it in the long run
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 18:08:19 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
Andy,
Besides the gas, You might want to change the oil and filter. Then before
you crank it, unplug the coil wire and the cold start and turn the engine
over several times to build up oil pressure so you don't have a dry start.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 3:38 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Taking Delorean Out of Storage
In a message dated 1/1/04 9:09:02 AM Central Standard Time,
stldrgn@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Hey Guys,
>
> I'm going to be getting my Delorean back soon, and its been sitting
> in "storage" for over a year and a half with a full tank of gas in
> it. My question is besides the obvious step of draining the tank of
> gas, what other steps should one take to prepare a delorean before
> firing up its engines again? My other question is related to gas, I
> was informed that the Delorean only runs on 91 octane, or atleast
> should only be 91 octane, is this true? or can this car run on
> regular gas?
>
> Thanks
<<<<<
If you live in the US, 87 octane is the minimum. the 91 octane is based on
the UK method of octane calculation.
Some list members maintain that 91 octane (US) in a stock DMC is detrimental
rather than beneficial.
Andy >>>>>
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 21:35:18 -0500
From: "William Bowie" <wbowie@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ETDOC
Does the ETDOC still exist? I went to their site but its way overdue for
updates.
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 21:42:15 EST
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Delco Alternator Mod
I have installed a Delco alternator in 6530 and used an chrome alternator
bracket sold by PEP Boys but it is more of a hockey stick shape as oppossed to a
"J" so it comes very close to the fan of the alternator. Does anyone know
where to get the "J" shaped bracket or have the make and model number of it?
Dave & 6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 02:50:33 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cat problems
Carcoon so cat's can't get to the car or cover.
Havahart trap and relocate the cats to another city.
Get a dog that likes to chase cats.
Pellet gun - get rid of the cats.
Stephen
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 03:22:18 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tail Light Fix - UPDATE
I had been having trouble with my tail lights lately, brake lights
working when they feel like it, etc...
I even got pulled over by a cop while leaving John Hervey's place
in Forney Texas for having a brake light out!
So before spending over $100 on PJ Grady's light boards I thought I
would try the trick mentioned in the technical library:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/taillights.htm
This reccomends to go to Radio Shack and buy one pack of
Cat.# 64-3010 machine screws, and one pack of Cat.# 64-3017 nuts.
However let me recommends that you buy TWO packs of the screws
because they come as a variety pack of different sizes and there
isn't enough of the small ones to equal out.
It's only a couple of bucks.
I took both of my tail lights off as well as the center plate.
While I had the center plate off I scrubbed it down, dried it out,
and then coated it with "Mother's Black Restore" to let it soak over
night. Then I took the light boards off the lenses and cleaned
the inside of the lenses out with soapy water and then quick dried
them with an air compressor.
...on to the light boards.
First I use some spray electronics wash to clean the contacts.
Using a tiny flat screw driver I adjusted the little prongs inside
the sockets and pulled them up a little so they would be tighter.
Next I installed the little tiny screws and nuts into the little
mounting holes and tightened the crap out of them!
That's all pretty simple.
next I noticed that there is no reflector in the center of the tail
light where the small running light goes.
I had remember seeing someone using a small CD-R in the center for a
reflector once, but I thought I would take it a step further....
First you need to use a drill with a large bit to hollow out the
center of the CD-R in order to get the CD to slip over the socket.
Now I cut the CD down to it would fit into the square of the lens.
You can cut it with a pair of scissors.
This makes a perfect lens reflector (providing you use a silver CD).
You can see a photo of the finished product on the FILES page.
If you feel like going through all this trouble, this should fix your
tail light troubles... however PJ's new and improved light boards are
probably still a good idea if you can afford it!
- Videobob
VIN# 5278
http://www.dfwdmc.com
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 04:00:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ruined engine
Slow down and take a deep breath. One thing I've learned messing with
old cars is that every problem has a solution. The secret is finding it.
First: your problem is limited to one end of one head, not the whole
engine.
Second: If you stopped drilling as soon as you hit the "water jacket"
(remember: PRV's don't have a traditional water jacket -- the
cylinders are individual assemblies sitting in big tubs of coolant), I
doubt if you came anywhere near #3 cylinder).
Third: All you need to do is replace useable threads in that same
area. Not that difficult. They don't even need to be isolated from the
water jacket if you seal them with teflon tape (coincidentally, today
I replaced a water pump on a GM 151, with mounting bolts that extend
into the water jacket by design).
BTW: I'd give up on the helicoil at this point. Not only will it be
harder to seal watertight than a bolt, but since the hole is all the
way through (not blind bottomed), the helicoil will tend to eject
itself into the water jacket.
As you've already discovered, it is very difficult to drill straight
through a snapped off bolt (I've done so exactly once in my lifetime).
Even if you start in the center, chances are you'll be off to one side
by the time you hit the bottom.
Since you've already drilled a hole, can that hole become your new
manifold mount? Obviously the angle has changed, but it appears to
tilt AWAY from cylinder #6 intake runner. You may be able to simply
re-drill the manifold to match the new angle. What diameter is that
current hole? Can it be drilled and tapped into something useable?
If you can't use the current hole, here's a possible variation on
David Teitelbaum's idea: get a machine shop to drill and tap a hole
STRAIGHT through the center of a large diameter socket head cap screw.
McMaster Carr sells them individually as large as 2" -- surely you can
work your way up to a useable hole by then! The head will be too tall,
so cut & file it down to 3/16" or so. You'll now have what is
basically an internally threaded plug with a low profile head to
prevent it from ejecting itself. Tap the big hole in your cylinder
head to match this screw (bad news: taps above 1/2" are rather
expensive), countersink it so the filed down head sits FLUSH OR BELOW
the manifold mating surface (good news: aluminum is so soft you can
get away with a wood boring forstner bit), and install. You'd probably
still end up modifying the original manifold hole somewhat.
If it makes you feel any better, I partially stripped the threads from
one of my intake mounting holes. Since the remaining 1mm pitch was
almost identical to 24 TPI, I simply tapped to 5/16-24 and converted
to the larger bolt. Did the other three bolts too to keep them
matched. Opted for fractional bolts vs 8x1.25mm because it was cleaner
and easier (tap followed original threads as easily as installing a bolt).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jpalatinus" <jopalatinus@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I am not having a good new year. I removed my intake manifold
> to fix a coolant leak and broke off one of the bolts (the rear right
> one on the passenger side) I drilled a hole in it to put in a screw
> extractor and the screw extractor broke. I bought a helicoil kit
> and began to drill out the hole.using a 7/32 bit. The hardened
> steel bolt was difficult to drill, and I guess the aluminum was
> easier. I put the intake back on just to line the holes up and I
> drilled a little too much too much to the left and coolant started
> spewing out of the hole I was drilling. I also see coolant in the
> right rear intake hole indicating perhaps that it went to the
> cylinder? I uploaded a picture of the hole in the archieves under
> ruined engine. I am guessing this is the case right? Is there a
> way to fix such a hole other than complete engine replacement?, Or
> am I just screwed. Is there hope for my car, can it be welded?
>
>
> Joe P.
> 6808 17167
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 04:26:35 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cat problems
[Moderator Note: Unless someone has a serious and original suggestion, the "Cat Problems" thread is over. - moderator Mike Substelny]
Buy a single-pump BB gun. Don't miss.
I love cats. They taste just like chicken.
Rich A.
#5335
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Henry" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I keep my D in an open garage (no door), covered with a California
Car Cover. Nonetheless, there is a neighborhood cat (or cats) that
has turned one corner of my car cover into a scratching post -
practically shredding it. There are a few light scratches on the
facia and black bumper, but nothing too deep. Any suggestions on
what I can do to keep cats off the car cover? And please don't
suggest installing a garage door - that's not an option.
>
> thanks,
>
> -Hank
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 05:21:23 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PRV Octane
The reason I burn 93 octane is because my engine's compression is
9.5:1, timed 10-11 degrees BTDC (European spec). Have had
pre-detonation problems with 89 octane, especially in the summer.
Would suspect anyone running one of Houston's engines is in the same
situation.
High octane fuel is actually COUNTER PRODUCTIVE in a low compression
engine. Doesn't burn as well, which leads to carbon buildup.
Of course once an engine is carbonized, you may have no choice but to
burn high octane fuel. Not only will the deposits reduce cylinder
volume slightly, raising compression (in a bad way), but they glow red
hot and can cause low octane fuel to pre-detonate.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
>
> 2. Which gas: I asked this question some months ago. I was told by a
> list member that the "91" rating is some odd-ball kind of research
> number or European octane rating that actually corresponds to 87
> octane at a U.S. pump. If you look at the pumps next time you go,
> you'll see 87, 89, & 93. There -is- no 91. Most owners I know (except
> Bill Robertson) run 87 octane. Bill's engine is a replacement from a
> Renault R30. It has minor differences that require the higher octane.
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 09:57:29 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Universial Studio's Florida
Hey, if there is anyone planning on going to Universial Studio's and
visiting the "Back To The Future" ride, and visiting the gift shop let
me know.
I will gladly pay a handsome fee for a few XXL t-shirts!
(and other goodies).
Just thought I would bring it up.
- VB
VIN#5278
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:02:18 EST
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLoreanCar Show Magazine
Well the next issue of DCS Magazine is due out in April. If there are any of
you that wish to have an article in this upcoming magazine we need it in by
March 1st.
This issue will heavily focus on Pigeon Forge along with a variety of other
articles. We have more from the Italian Alps and a few more tech topics,
for more information go to
www.deloreancarshow.com and click on magazine.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:48:41 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
Third time I will post this...still no answer yet:
Is there a web site where we can preview the calendar before buying it!?
-----Original Message-----
From: gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx [mailto:gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:33 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR!
The 2003 DeLorean Calendar is now history! Don't miss out on the 2004
DeLorean Calendar!
These are nice collectable items and the pictures are suitable for
framing when you are done with the calendar. This year's calendar
includes custom DeLoreans, painted DeLoreans, DeLoreans in unique and
interesting poses and beautiful background sceneries. There's even a
bonus cover photo that features a group shot of Ds with the WTC Twin
Towers in the skyline. Simply beautiful!
The 12-month calendar is assembled like a booklet or magazine (no spiral
binding), 11 X 17 (open) glossy full-color photos with bleed to edge of
page (no borders), for 8 1/2 X 11 (closed) frameable prints.
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 06:52:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cat problems
Pet stores sell a spray to keep cats off of the
furniture and such.. If you spray the cover with this
stuff, it may keep the cats off of it.
--- Henry <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> I keep my D in an open garage (no door), covered
> with a California Car Cover. Nonetheless, there is
> a neighborhood cat (or cats) that has turned one
> corner of my car cover into a scratching post -
> practically shredding it. There are a few light
> scratches on the facia and black bumper, but nothing
> too deep. Any suggestions on what I can do to keep
> cats off the car cover? And please don't suggest
> installing a garage door - that's not an option.
>
> thanks,
>
> -Hank
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 09:42:35 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Cat problems
Hank,
Considered buying one of those carpeted scratching post for cats. The
cat is shaving its nails which it has to do since they keep growing.
Are there trees in your neighborhood? Cats usually use these.
There are also chemicals that deter cat and dog marking. I would
suspect your car was "marked" by another cat and this may be a
territorial response. Try washing the car cover.
You could also duct tape some 24" wide aluminum to the corner of the
car cover. After a while the cat will give up trying to scratch it.
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 08:07:41 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Tail Light Fix - UPDATE
If the PC boards are in pretty good shape then I can Fix the light problem
for $10.00 ea.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 08:18:05 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: my delorean website registry
hello all:
since I have spent some time getting back into perl
scripting for linux, I have intergrated some CGI
scripts into the delorean website. to impliment the
sql server ive created a registry of car owners who
visit the page, nothing fancy but cool none the less.
It sure would be nice if the folks in the community
would help me test this out, It will just be added to
a page with a list of folks who visit, that all.
thanx much
jordan 11613
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 16:24:01 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cat problems
Go to your local pet store, and pick up a bottle of spray-on scratch
repellant. It's non-toxic, and is safe for use on furniture, so there
shouldn't be a problem using it on a car cover.
FYI: Cats scratching is another form of marking territory, so once
one, or several cats smells the scent, they'll keep scratching the
same spot to either compete for territory, or keep marking it to
affirm it's their's. So it's the same if you've got a problem with
dogs whizzing on your wheels: You need to spray specific repellant to
not only keep them away, but get rid of the smell so that they won't
be attracted back.
BB & pellet guns are good against varmits, and other pests, but
typicly won't take care of cats. Especially when dealing with
multiple cats. They'll get hurt, but will usually just come right
back. And nevermind the fact that YOU'RE SHOOTING BB'S AT YOUR CAR!!!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Henry" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I keep my D in an open garage (no door), covered with a California
Car Cover. Nonetheless, there is a neighborhood cat (or cats) that
has turned one corner of my car cover into a scratching post -
practically shredding it. There are a few light scratches on the
facia and black bumper, but nothing too deep. Any suggestions on
what I can do to keep cats off the car cover? And please don't
suggest installing a garage door - that's not an option.
>
> thanks,
>
> -Hank
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 16:27:55 -0000
From: "Heather" <hnwwoodzell@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ruined Engine, Our DMC and More...
Note: I am writing this to relay to you all the events which led up
to us having a properly running De Lorean.
My goal is to make friends, share stories, and have fun, which is my
definition of "living the dream".
I do not know, nor do I claim to know, all the proper names for
parts, their problems, or any technical terms.
Please do not flame or make fun of me for "not making sense" or think
my story is far-fetched. I have all the paperwork to prove it.
Anyway, on with the story! ;)
You may remember (but hopefully not) our post last summer on the DMC
we bought, where we about had a "lynching" here on the board because
I made the mistake of doubting Rob Grady. As I'm sure you all know,
you were right, he is, obviously, the man! He's been the most helpful
and hospitable guy to us that you can imagine, and even called on his
own time to check on the car, even though at the time we were having
a local mechanic do the work.
When we brought the car back, (from New Jersey) it had been sitting,
ignored and unloved for little over a year at that point. The
previous owner took it to Rob for (among other things) fuel
contamination, and then after Rob fixed it, they brought it home and
let it set for over a year, thus contaminating it again! If you're
out there somewhere, I'm just sayin'.. why'd ya do it? lol.
Naturally, the car was less than happy, but amazingly, it made it
through the 50+ mile trek from the drop-off point of the car delivery
all the way to our house... but that's about it. One day, as it was
sitting in the driveway idling (very poorly, I might add), we looked
down and saw oil.. POURING out from under the drivers side. Luckily,
we had spoken to a gentleman in the nearby town of Troutville and he
reccomended a place in Roanoke, VA called The Sports Car Clinic, and
so.. we had to put our poor car on a trailer, and haul her 50 odd
miles in another direction.
Then, a nightmare..
What was believed to be the front crank shaft seal, turned out to be
something much, much worse. Coolant had, at some point, leaked into
what I call the galleys underneath the intake manifold, and had just
sat there... and sat there... and sat there.. the oil leak was
coming from a hole that the coolant had eroded in the engine block!!!
We tought, Oh, Jesus.. this is it. Our car is done. ..Not so!
The team at the Sports Car Clinic first cleaned the "wound" carefully
and thoroughly, and welded the holes (FOUR of them) closed with an
epoxy, sealing the deal with a silicone. This not only cured the
problem and SAVED THE ENGINE, but prevents further damage from ever
occuring. So, as you can see, welding is definetly not out of the
question. Well, on top of that, as I had discussed, there was, once
again, fuel contamination. Miraculously, they were able to not only
fix the problem in a resonable amount of time, but were able to save
the fuel distributor, the warm-up regulator, and all 6 injectors,
which saved a good bit of money.
Onto the small(er) things: They fixed a leaky exhaust, new driver's
side window motor regulator, had to replace a bushing in the steering
column, cold start was wired wrong (we don't even need to discuss the
amount of "rigging" that previous owners had attempted.) new thermal
time switch, battery, wiper blades, ect.
What's Left: Automatic tranny shifts HARD into second.. so hard that
it sometimes scares you.. but there's nothing so bad that warrants
transmission work.. like Rob says, "if it's not broken, don't fix it
just yet!" ..needs weatherstripping on the drivers side door, will
need a brake job real soon, needs a coil box cover, instrument panel
brackets seem to be loose or broken, 'cause it shakes really bad
sometimes... Some cosmetic work needed, although all leather is
intact, all carpeting A-Ok, Door struts are factory (or appear to be
because the other two sets have the PJ Grady Stickers on them and
look much newer) and have yet to start sagging! :) AND original
owners manual still in the glovebox. :)
As far as the car's overall performance? Well, knock on wood, it runs
beautifully. We refuse to store that car for long periods of time..
We picked her up at the Clinic on New Years Eve, and it was about 50
degrees here (VA), and we drove her all day and half the night, and
do you know, that car stayed cool as a cucumber? The Temperature
gauge went to 1/4 and stayed there. (and yes, it works.. it
overheated when we first got her, and it was way up).
We cruised the mountains, the city, .. I'd say we put over 100 miles
on the car new year's eve and new year's day combined.. it runs SWEET!
So the next time you see a chick driving a De Lorean, it could very
well be me.
Heather Grace Morgan
#0809
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 16:50:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ETDOC
Are you the same William Bowie from Columbia SC? If so, welcome back
-- haven't seen your name on the List for a year or so. Are you still
DeLo shopping? In case you missed it: Louie Golden's first car
(#10115) was totalled by a drunk driver last September. He purchased
Bob Thomason's #5252 (the other car that went with us to Dave
Swingle's mother's house) as a replacement. I'm going to Louie's house
tomorrow to temporarily bypass his new car's potentially failing idle
speed system (remember doing that to #10115?). The more things change,
the more they remain the same...
Can't answer your question Re: ETDOC, but I do want to encourage you
to stop by Pigeon Forge (Tennessee!) this June for the big biennial
national DeLorean Car Show. Just jump on I-26 and you're practically
there.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "William Bowie" <wbowie@xxxx> wrote:
> Does the ETDOC still exist? I went to their site but its way overdue for
> updates.
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 12:21:36 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Rack & Pinion Rebuild
The bearings you are talking about that hold the upper and lower pinion
shaft in the steering rack are what is referred to as a "spec" bearing. What this
means is these bearings were specified and made specifically to fit this
steering rack and are not a "standard" off the shelf, or even special order item.
I've gone thru thousands of cross reference bearings to try and match these up
and they just don't exist. What I do when I rebuild a rack is actually make
the bearing myself. The balls are available at most bearing stores, and I
machine new inner and outer bearing races, heat treat them and then put everything
back together. The other critical thing with rebuilding a steering rack is the
preload settings you must maintain on the rack and pinion and the inner tie
rod ends. If they aren't set correctly, the steering will not feel and operate
correctly. This all takes a lot of time to do correctly, thus the cost to have
someone do it, but you do end up with a new/rebuilt, stock steering rack.
One other thing I have done, because the rack was in such bad / worn /
unusable shape, was to take the pinion gear and shaft and machine them down to a
smaller ID. I then sleeved the shaft back up to a standard bearing size. The
inside of the steering box then had to be machined out to accept the OD of
these new "standard" bearings. This one rack, which will now except "standard" $15
bearings, is still working great, as far as I know. Only thing is, you are
still spending the time and money on custom machine work to get to this point.
One thing for sure. The steering rack is a VERY important part of the car
and you don't want to be cutting corners or taking short cuts with it's
repair. Trying to save a few bucks here can end up costing you a whole bunch more in
other repair bills later.
Marty
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rack & Pinion determination
I agree that the rack and pinion is (if not the most) one of the most
important parts of the car. I would not be so upset to pay the 350-400
for a new rack if mine was in poor condition. The fact is that when I
examine my rack, it is discovered that there is very little wear on
the rack in the center. I am simply just trying to find what the
bearings cross reference to.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 17:06:24 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Universial Studio's Japan / Tastey
Some relatives of mine came to the states from Japan this
Christmas. They always bring me neat little things that are
Delorean related. Last year I got a BTTF ear wax cleaner, a BTTF
pen, and BTTF band-aids. This year I got BTTF cookies and BTTF
candies. All are shaped like little Deloreans.
Erik
www.drunkonthemoon.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hey, if there is anyone planning on going to Universial Studio's
and
> visiting the "Back To The Future" ride, and visiting the gift shop
let
> me know.
> I will gladly pay a handsome fee for a few XXL t-shirts!
> (and other goodies).
> Just thought I would bring it up.
> - VB
> VIN#5278
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 17:30:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Universial Studio's Florida
You can call Universal Studios directly and ask for the Gift Shop.
They will take orders over the phone. They also can get you things
from California if they don't have them in Florida. I don't have the #
handy but I am sure you can find it easily.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey, if there is anyone planning on going to Universial Studio's and
> visiting the "Back To The Future" ride, and visiting the gift shop let
> me know.
> I will gladly pay a handsome fee for a few XXL t-shirts!
> (and other goodies).
> Just thought I would bring it up.
> - VB
> VIN#5278
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