[DML] Digest Number 1816
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[DML] Digest Number 1816
- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 1 Jan 2004 23:53:52 -0000
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Taking Delorean Out of Storage
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Car Dies Out Problem
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: deloreans insurance
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Ruined engine
From: "jpalatinus" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Craig Radio Wire Harness Adapters
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: IT'S FINALLY RUNS
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Rack & Pinion determination
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
8. ground effects
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: IT'S FINALLY RUNS
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. DeLorean Keys
From: lhemb@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
From: "Tom" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
From: gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx
13. Re: ground effects
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Delorean Measurements
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: Clutch Fluid
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: ground effects
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Ruined engine
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: deloreans insurance
From: mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
20. lambda reading
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Another TV Delorean sighting: I love the 80's strikes back
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Ruined engine
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Cat problems
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. RE: Car Dies Out Problem
From: "jdub" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 22:49:30 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
Hey Guys,
I'm going to be getting my Delorean back soon, and its been sitting
in "storage" for over a year and a half with a full tank of gas in
it. My question is besides the obvious step of draining the tank of
gas, what other steps should one take to prepare a delorean before
firing up its engines again? My other question is related to gas, I
was informed that the Delorean only runs on 91 octane, or atleast
should only be 91 octane, is this true? or can this car run on
regular gas?
Thanks
Think Stainless
10440
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 22:58:37 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car Dies Out Problem
Another thing
I remember when I was driving my delorean, I noticed that the car had
a problem where the headlights would dim and cut out and or the
stereo would also die out, however I noticed that this stereo would
send like this feedback noise through the speakers, it would be like
a humming noise that got louder or softer depending on if I was
accellerating or not. Is this all due to problems with the wiring? I
replaced the battery before this car went into storage, and I noticed
that the car was just draining the hell out of this battery. Any
ideas?
Think Stainless
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 17:56:26 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: deloreans insurance
The safest way to insure your Delorean is with a Stated Value policy
This was there is no question what the car is worth when it is totaled.
It only cost a few dollars more and is worth it in the long run
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 00:07:14 -0000
From: "jpalatinus" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ruined engine
Well, I am not having a good new year. I removed my intake manifold
to fix a coolant leak and broke off one of the bolts (the rear right
one on the passenger side) I drilled a hole in it to put in a screw
extractor and the screw extractor broke. I bought a helicoil kit
and began to drill out the hole.using a 7/32 bit. The hardened
steel bolt was difficult to drill, and I guess the aluminum was
easier. I put the intake back on just to line the holes up and I
drilled a little too much too much to the left and coolant started
spewing out of the hole I was drilling. I also see coolant in the
right rear intake hole indicating perhaps that it went to the
cylinder? I uploaded a picture of the hole in the archieves under
ruined engine. I am guessing this is the case right? Is there a
way to fix such a hole other than complete engine replacement?, Or
am I just screwed. Is there hope for my car, can it be welded?
Joe P.
6808 17167
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 18:30:08 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Craig Radio Wire Harness Adapters
The cables I have cost me more than what you say you can get them for, and
the price also includes shipping and packing.
I include a printed version of the wire translations rather than having
someone go to
another website and print them off.
Everything is included.
If you take the time to go out and look for things, do the research and
effort then you
can find anything cheaper, sure.
I figured I would help by offering them to those who want them without the
hassle.
This whole thing came about because I wanted one of these and could not find
them,
Mid-State was out of them and had no intentions of getting more, so when I
finally
found some I bought all they had.
I have about 20 of them if anyone wants one.
I have already sold several of them.
I am just trying to help.
God forbid that my efforts of driving around Dallas for two days looking for
these
makes me $2.00 each after costs and shipping.
I will get rich this way for sure!!!!
Videobob
VIN#5278
http://www.dfwdmc.com
> > The common speaker return line may be a problem. Most contemporary
>
>This is absolutely true in my case. I installed an Alpine head unit, and
>had to re-wire the speaker lines directly, and bypass the harness.
>
>BTW, my local electronic supply shop has the same nine-pin harnesses for a
>few bucks. I'll check it out next time I'm there. Sorry, Bob, I don't
>think it's necessary to charge $13 for a $4 cable, when the "wire code
>translations" are all available on either the Mid-State DMC site
>(http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/radioplug.html) or my page when I
>installed my radio: http://www.eskin.net/radioharness.html.
>
>-Hank #1619
[very long quote trimmed by moderator]
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 19:34:42 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IT'S FINALLY RUNS
In a message dated 12/31/03 9:57:03 AM Central Standard Time,
john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx writes:
Found out it was the CAT blocked or clogged, whatever, anyone know where to
get a bypass"test pipe" in the U.S, other than going to the muffler shop? I'm
not looking forward to spending $$$ on a new CAT if I don't have to. Don't
know if they will do the work yet I will find out next year, THANKS AGAIN!
<<<<<<<<<<
Netherlands DeLorean Club has the eliminator pipe. about $100 i think. More
efficient than a hollowed-out cat (turns exhaust gasses into a swirling
whirlpool), but the cost may be too much for some. I would avoid paying someone an
hourly rate to install a new cat or eliminator pipe. It's a little more
difficult than your typical Honda, not to mention many parts will probably be too
rusty to work with. Since you have been w/o a running car for so long, you
should do it yourself and powdercoat all the muffler brackets and such while you
are at it. the muffler heatshield will probably be unusable by the time you
are done too!
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 01:30:09 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rack & Pinion determination
I agree that the rack and pinion is (if not the most) one of the most
important parts of the car. I would not be so upset to pay the 350-400
for a new rack if mine was in poor condition. The fact is that when I
examine my rack, it is discovered that there is very little wear on
the rack in the center. I am simply just trying to find what the
bearings cross reference to. When examining the upper bearing, moving
the 2 halves results in excessive movement-meaning that the balls of
the bearing are worn down, or the inside edges of the bearing are
worn. Comparing the balls shows that the upper bearing balls are a bit
smaller then the bottom. When I first opened the rack-it was lacking
fluid except for a few drips-this is why the top went bad-it was dry
and had a layer of dry muck on it. I believe if I can find this
bearing, the rack will be renewed-from there I can find out where else
it is worn, and only have spend a few dollars to see if this is the
problem instead of spending many for a new one. So if anyone knows
what bearing to ask for in a parts store, please let me know. Also,
how is the fluid held in this unit-does it run to the boots? Thanks guys.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 21:04:01 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982@xxxxxxx>
Subject: ground effects
Anyone know where ground effects are available either new or used?
Cecil Longwisch
#10663
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 04:15:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IT'S FINALLY RUNS
Removing emissions devices may well be illegal in John's state, but so
is driving with the speedometer pegged, which owners sometimes mention
on this List (Message #34198, for example). As long as he doesn't
represent the car as being catalytic converter equipped, John should
be OK (if his state does not require emissions testing). Many
DeLoreans receive so little road time anyway that a de-emissioned copy
will pose less environmental risk than a fully emissioned car driven
frequently in rush hour traffic.
Besides, John's current converter is useless. There is no way to
replace its melted honeycomb. Bob's suggestion would at least allow
him to continue to use the outer shell.
Bob: a chisel won't be long enough to reach inside the converter. I'd
recommend a 12"-18" screwdriver, or an old fashioned tire tool if a
long screwdriver isn't available. The honeycomb is surrounded by wire
mesh -- wrap it around whichever tool like spaghetti to pull out.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
> [Moderator Note: Just in case someone doesn't realize it, following
Bob's advice will affect the value of your car, as well as make it
unlicensable in some places. - moderator Mike Substelny]
>
> John,
>
> Take a long chisel and hammer and chop out the junk inside of the cat.
>
> Then put it back on the car. No cost. Looks stock!
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 00:20:15 EST
From: lhemb@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Keys
I have several spare keys that were cut on "Taylor USA" blank X29. They work
on my doors, ignition and the lock box behind the driver seat.
Brian McCabe - 5830
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 17:48:01 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
Hi
Here it goes one more time!
91 octane by European standard - research method. It is equal to EXACTLY 87
in the US - research + motor / 2 method. You can see it on every gas pump.
It says 87 octane rating R+M/2.
To all of you in the US - use the 87 octane fuel. By using anything higher
you are just wasting money and actually hurting the engine.
To all you in Europe - use 91 octane fuel (if you can find it).
DO NOT use anything with lower rating and TRY NOT to use anything with
higher rating.
I hope this helps
Tom Niemczewski
tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...
----- Original Message -----
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 11:49 PM
Subject: [DML] Taking Delorean Out of Storage
> Hey Guys,
>
> I'm going to be getting my Delorean back soon, and its been sitting
> in "storage" for over a year and a half with a full tank of gas in
> it. My question is besides the obvious step of draining the tank of
> gas, what other steps should one take to prepare a delorean before
> firing up its engines again? My other question is related to gas, I
> was informed that the Delorean only runs on 91 octane, or atleast
> should only be 91 octane, is this true? or can this car run on
> regular gas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Think Stainless
> 10440
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 12:32:39 -0600
From: gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx
Subject: REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR...
REMINDER: 2004 DELOREAN CALENDAR!
The 2003 DeLorean Calendar is now history! Don't miss out on the 2004
DeLorean Calendar!
These are nice collectable items and the pictures are suitable for
framing when you are done with the calendar. This year's calendar
includes custom DeLoreans, painted DeLoreans, DeLoreans in unique and
interesting poses and beautiful background sceneries. There's even a
bonus cover photo that features a group shot of Ds with the WTC Twin
Towers in the skyline. Simply beautiful!
The 12-month calendar is assembled like a booklet or magazine (no spiral
binding), 11 X 17 (open) glossy full-color photos with bleed to edge of
page (no borders), for 8 1/2 X 11 (closed) frameable prints.
Now available for $15.00 ea. (US shipping included).
Canadian: add $1.50 ea. shipping.
Foreign: add $5.00 ea. shipping.
(Discounted shipping charges for more than 1 quantity per envelope. Send
e-mail request for rates.)
ORDER TODAY by sending check or money order to:
GULLWING Magazine
P.O. Box 991
St. Peters, MO 63376
USA
or electronic fund transfers available using checking account or credit
card via www.PayPal.com to gullwingmagazine(at)juno.com.
We're also accepting new photo submissions NOW for consideration in the
2005 DeLorean Calendar at the address listed above or the e-mail address
listed below. 2005 Calendars will be available at the Pigeon Forge
event, and if your photo is chosen, your copy is free!
Thank you,
Ron & Cheryl Wester
GULLWING Magazine
gullwingmagazine(at)juno.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 10:36:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ground effects
Cecil
Don Steger (DeLorean Motor Center) just put some on
his car and on another car. I don't think he sells
them, but would be willing to tell you where he got
his.
Dick Ryan
--- Cecil Longwisch <dmc1982@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Anyone know where ground effects are available
> either new or used?
>
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 18:40:50 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Measurements
Does anyone have detailed measurements of the body of a Delorean? I
can find on the web general measurements such as width, height, etc.
But I need detailed measurements of the body. Thanks.
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 18:56:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clutch Fluid
I also believe that DOT 5 Silicone "should" be all right but the
general consensus among the Delorean venders and service centers of
other British cars say Castrol in the only way to go. If Silicone is
working for you then stay with it. Just a couple of things to keep in
mind. You can never get all the air out of the fluid so it is slightly
compressable. This means a softer pedal and more pedal travel. On some
cars it is an issue. If anyone is considering converting to it it is
more complicated than just flushing out the old and sticking in the
silicone. You cannot mix with other fluid types so it requires a
rebuild of the ENTIRE system before using Silicone. You should make a
label by the master cylinder so no one ever by accident adds anything
but silicone to the system. Silicone is not hygroscopic ie, it does
not absorb moisture so the insides of the system should stay pristine.
Because of this it also has a higher boiling point than DOT 4. I would
still flush it once in a while, maybe not every 2 years but every 10?
It is also more expensive but not prohibitively so. Keep us informed
as to how your experience with it is and maybe as brake systems get
rebuilt more of us may convert to it.\
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Bill Lane" <blane@xxxx> wrote:
> Group,
>
> I have been using Dot 5 silicone brake fluid in my D for about 20 years.
> The wheel cylinders, master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder have
> been rebuilt once and the clutch slave cylinder has been replaced
once. I
> have seen no signs that using Dot 5 is causing any problems.
>
> Bill Lane
> #3635
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 19:05:45 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ground effects
Here is the info on where I got the ground effects for the Yellow D.
Custom Fiberglass
316 Dixwell Ave
New Haven, Ct 06511
203-776-1341
OR...
P.J. Grady
You can get the complete set or just the sides.
Ron
Gullwing Magazine
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982@xxxx>
wrote:
> Anyone know where ground effects are available either new or used?
>
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 19:06:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
Remove the fuel pump and boot, remove ALL the fuel SAFELY and if it
still smells OK you can burn it in another car. Add a little at a time
to a 1/2 full tank and use it up. If it smells real bad take it to a
gas station for proper disposal. With the fuel pump and boot out
examine the bottom of the fuel tank and clean it thourghly. Check the
baffles and pick-up hose, it shouldn't be soft and collapable and the
baffles should not be broken, out of place or improperly assembled. Be
careful reinstalling so you don't kink the pick-up hose. You should
only run 91 octane or higher (higher doesn't do anything but cost
more). Check the oil level and coolant level before starting. Make
sure there is no air in the system so check the bleeder screw on the
thermostat. Watch the oil pressure when starting up and the first
moments. After that watch the temperature and make sure the fans start
up. Once you get it warmed up drain the engine oil and change the filter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "thinkstainless" <stldrgn@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> I'm going to be getting my Delorean back soon, and its been sitting
> in "storage" for over a year and a half with a full tank of gas in
> it. My question is besides the obvious step of draining the tank of
> gas, what other steps should one take to prepare a delorean before
> firing up its engines again? My other question is related to gas, I
> was informed that the Delorean only runs on 91 octane, or atleast
> should only be 91 octane, is this true? or can this car run on
> regular gas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Think Stainless
> 10440
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 19:16:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ruined engine
Without being there and actually seeing the situation my advice is to
drill a LARGE hole now and tap it. Get a piece of round aluminum
stock and have it threaded to go into the hole. Using some type of
sealing compound, screw it in and cut off and grind flush. Now
position the manifold on the engine and locate the bolt hole with a
transfer punch. Drill and tap for the bolt being careful not to go too
deep. This should help you out. Welding is not an option since you
cannot weld inside the hole. The hardest part is getting the angle
right. You may have to find the services of a local machinist, this
can be done with the engine in the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jpalatinus" <jopalatinus@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I am not having a good new year. I removed my intake manifold
> to fix a coolant leak and broke off one of the bolts (the rear right
> one on the passenger side) I drilled a hole in it to put in a screw
> extractor and the screw extractor broke. I bought a helicoil kit
> and began to drill out the hole.using a 7/32 bit. The hardened
> steel bolt was difficult to drill, and I guess the aluminum was
> easier. I put the intake back on just to line the holes up and I
> drilled a little too much too much to the left and coolant started
> spewing out of the hole I was drilling. I also see coolant in the
> right rear intake hole indicating perhaps that it went to the
> cylinder? I uploaded a picture of the hole in the archieves under
> ruined engine. I am guessing this is the case right? Is there a
> way to fix such a hole other than complete engine replacement?, Or
> am I just screwed. Is there hope for my car, can it be welded?
>
>
> Joe P.
> 6808 17167
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 19:34:36 +0000
From: mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: deloreans insurance
I disagree - you want an Agreed Value policy, not Stated Value. There
is a significant difference. Agreed Value means that the insurance
company agrees with the valuation you have put on the car. Stated Value
policies don't have that acknowledgement from the insurance company.
Bottom line is to talk to your agent. Ask questions about what happens if
you have to file a claim. The conditions you need to know about are damages
over your deductible but below the total loss limit, total loss valuation,
buyback policies, and where can you get the car repaired. If you want the
car done by a specialist, will the company pay for transportation? If they
won't give you written responses, find another insurance agent or company.
--
Mike
> The safest way to insure your Delorean is with a Stated Value policy
>
> This was there is no question what the car is worth when it is totaled.
>
> It only cost a few dollars more and is worth it in the long run
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 20:17:18 -0000
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: lambda reading
hi i have a delorean from canada its an 1983 in kilometers,it has
22000km {13000 miles} the white box under the dash by footwell
where the speedo cable goes into reads 78 can anyone tell me if this
is right and what it means thanks simon
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 15:42:28 -0500
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullan@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Another TV Delorean sighting: I love the 80's strikes back
This morning, I caught an episode of "I love the 80's strikes back" on some
channel I never watch (VH1?) thanks to my neice being in town... the episode
focused on 1981, and I caught about half a second of a Delorean rear end in
the opening sequence. Eventually they got around to talking briefly about
DeLoreans; voiced over some nice shots of a lot of cars parked someplace I
didn't recognize and some on the road. They got their technical facts
straight (they have stainless steel body panels and volvo engines), followed
by stuff about JZD himself (sounded like the beginning of his legal troubles
in the US and the common condeming hearsay about him and drugs). I'm not
really "up" on the timeline or specifics of what happened to him, but it
sounded like they were straying from their 1981 theme a bit there.
Anyway, I like it when my favorite car gets airtime in almost any context
that doesn't include gratuitously destroying a car :-)
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 22:22:27 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Taking Delorean Out of Storage
1. Extra steps: You -could- flush the lines out. That might help but
I don't think that little bit of fuel would harm things too badly.
2. Which gas: I asked this question some months ago. I was told by a
list member that the "91" rating is some odd-ball kind of research
number or European octane rating that actually corresponds to 87
octane at a U.S. pump. If you look at the pumps next time you go,
you'll see 87, 89, & 93. There -is- no 91. Most owners I know (except
Bill Robertson) run 87 octane. Bill's engine is a replacement from a
Renault R30. It has minor differences that require the higher octane.
3. Stereo whine: You may have ratty sparkplug wires. The shielding is
breaking down and the whine you hear is bleed-through from the
alternator. A tune-up is in order. OR, if you're running a non-stock
stereo that's drawing power from a non-standard point that could
cause it. You could put an in-line filter on it. Check Radio Shack or
Transistor Hut for them. ;-)
4. Dimming lights: Clean your grounds. There are a lot of them. The
DeLorean is notorious for ground issues.
Hope this helps,
Rich A.
#5335
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "thinkstainless" <stldrgn@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> I'm going to be getting my Delorean back soon, and its been sitting
> in "storage" for over a year and a half with a full tank of gas in
> it. My question is besides the obvious step of draining the tank of
> gas, what other steps should one take to prepare a delorean before
> firing up its engines again? My other question is related to gas, I
> was informed that the Delorean only runs on 91 octane, or atleast
> should only be 91 octane, is this true? or can this car run on
> regular gas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Think Stainless
> 10440
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 22:33:11 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ruined engine
Joe,
Don't fret. I keep being told the beauty of our engines, is that
aluminum can be welded. Travis G. drilled too deeply into one of his
heads and went clear into the coolant pathway. He had his welded for
$50.00 and you can't even tell it had been damaged. There are photos
in the DMCnews archives that show a block eaten away by old coolant
and the weld repair afterwards. If the block can be welded, so can
yours.
The difficulty is bringing Mohammed to the mountain, because the
mountain sure ain't driving to Mohammed in that condition. There has
to be some kind of travelling welding circus in town that will come
to your place and fix you up. If not, put the mountain on a tow truck
to bring it to Mohammed's weld-'em-up joint.
Hold fast,
Rich A.
#5335
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jpalatinus" <jopalatinus@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I am not having a good new year. I removed my intake
manifold
> to fix a coolant leak and broke off one of the bolts (the rear
right
> one on the passenger side) I drilled a hole in it to put in a
screw
> extractor and the screw extractor broke. I bought a helicoil kit
> and began to drill out the hole.using a 7/32 bit. The hardened
> steel bolt was difficult to drill, and I guess the aluminum was
> easier. I put the intake back on just to line the holes up and I
> drilled a little too much too much to the left and coolant started
> spewing out of the hole I was drilling. I also see coolant in the
> right rear intake hole indicating perhaps that it went to the
> cylinder? I uploaded a picture of the hole in the archieves under
> ruined engine. I am guessing this is the case right? Is there a
> way to fix such a hole other than complete engine replacement?, Or
> am I just screwed. Is there hope for my car, can it be welded?
>
>
> Joe P.
> 6808 17167
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 17:48:04 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cat problems
I keep my D in an open garage (no door), covered with a California Car Cover. Nonetheless, there is a neighborhood cat (or cats) that has turned one corner of my car cover into a scratching post - practically shredding it. There are a few light scratches on the facia and black bumper, but nothing too deep. Any suggestions on what I can do to keep cats off the car cover? And please don't suggest installing a garage door - that's not an option.
thanks,
-Hank
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 14:24:22 -0800
From: "jdub" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Car Dies Out Problem
Sounds like a short somewhere. If you hook an ammeter to the battery you can
see if it's drawing current while the cars off. If it is, pull fuses one by
one until current draw is gone. THis will help you nail down where your
problem is. Email me if you want more help I have to deal with electronic
probs all the time...
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: thinkstainless [mailto:stldrgn@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 2:59 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Car Dies Out Problem
> Another thing
> I remember when I was driving my delorean, I noticed that the car had
> a problem where the headlights would dim and cut out and or the
> stereo would also die out, however I noticed that this stereo would
> send like this feedback noise through the speakers, it would be like
> a humming noise that got louder or softer depending on if I was
> accellerating or not. Is this all due to problems with the wiring? I
> replaced the battery before this car went into storage, and I noticed
> that the car was just draining the hell out of this battery. Any
> ideas?
>
> Think Stainless
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